Pumpkins are one of the most colorful and diverse plants in the Cucurbitaceae family, also known as the pumpkin family. And learning how to grow pumpkins will fill your fall with slick or bumpy products in a rainbow of fall colors!
Along with corn, it is one of the oldest known cultures in the Western Hemisphere, dating back 7,000 years. Originally from America, it was a favorite of the colonists who baked it with milk, honey, and spices, creating the forerunner of the pumpkin pie as we know it today. This plant belongs to the "three sisters" family traditionally grown together with corn and beans by Native Americans. It is available in a variety of varieties.
Today pumpkins are specially grown for many special purposes. "Sugar Pumpkin" is a variety that was bred to be sweet and less fibrous, and is perfect for pumpkin pie. Micro pumpkins are in abundance for Halloween and Thanksgiving as they are perfect for decorating. Giant pumpkins are grown to delight the crowd, and pumpkin carving is preferred when it comes to making a jack-o-lantern.
Good products for growing pumpkins:
Brief instructions for care
A beautiful pumpkin that is nearing maturity. Source: Elizabeth Cramer
Common Name (s) | pumpkin |
Scientific name | Cucurbita pepo |
Days to harvest | 90-120 days depending on the variety |
light | Full sun |
Water: | At least 1 inch a week, more in hot weather |
ground | Rich, well-drained soil |
fertilizer | Balanced fertilizer 3x / season |
Pests | Aphids, thrips, pumpkin vines, pumpkin bugs, army worms, cabbage grinders, cucumber beetles, cut worms, flea beetles |
Diseases | Powdery mildew, downy mildew, stem rot, anthracnose, Alternaria leaf spot / epidemic, Septoria leaf spot, Cercospora leaf spot |
Everything about pumpkins
Pumpkin plants will take up a decent chunk of your garden, but it's well worth it!
From tiny Jack Be Littles to larger Atlantic Giant, there are pumpkins of all kinds. Some, like Small Sugar, were bred to have sweeter pumpkin flesh that can be used to make pumpkin pie. Others were bred for decoration, like the (white) ghost pumpkins. There are thousands of varieties to choose from because of the ease with which they pollinate one another. With a specific purpose in mind, be sure to find the appropriate pumpkin variety.
Pumpkins, along with butternut squash and acorn squash, belong to the winter squash family. Their seeds are edible, just like other winter squash varieties.
Growing pumpkins is pretty easy once you master a few key techniques. Pumpkins (Cucurbita pepo is the most common type, although there are a few varieties of C. moschata and C. maxima) are grapevine plants whose vines can grow up to 20 feet in length.
During the growing season, each pumpkin exhibits several vines, each with a long chain of flowers, which become pumpkins when pollinated. They produce large green leaves that stretch across the ground, almost like a shadow to the pumpkins below. They have small curly tendrils to anchor the vine in place.
Pumpkin plants plant numerous male and female yellow flowers to grow pumpkins. The female flowers are attached to a tiny baby-sized pumpkin fruit and need to be pollinated with the pollen from the male flowers. This larger flower extends from a stem attached to the vine of the plant. When pollen gets into the female flowers from the male flower, the pumpkin has been pollinated and begins to grow.
Pumpkins have a life cycle that lasts 90-120 days, depending on the variety. However, if you are planting pumpkins for Halloween or Thanksgiving, it is best to start your seeds in early June to make sure they are ready on time.
Many different parts of the pumpkin plant are edible. The pulp of the pumpkin is often used in cakes. It can also be fried in the Japanese dish “tempura” or added to curries. The pumpkin seeds can be removed from the plant and tossed with spices and roasted to create a delicious snack. You can also fill and deep fry the male and female pumpkin flowers as part of a delicious snack called stuffed pumpkin flowers. Nowadays, many Americans also enjoy carving pumpkins for Halloween. Interestingly, before pumpkins were used, the first jack-o-lanterns were carved out of beets, turnips, or other root vegetables!
Planting pumpkins
Grapevines can take up a lot of space in the garden. Source: Petahopkins
Planting pumpkins is best done in spring, but it can be done all summer in warmer climates. Pumpkin plants need warm soil and growing conditions and cannot tolerate the cold well. When transplanting seedlings, make sure there is no risk of frost and start your pumpkin seeds indoors.
Growing a pumpkin patch can cause vines to meander through a garden pretty quickly. Put your pumpkins in a place where they can take up a lot of space. Depending on the variety, they can be up to 500 m²!
Make sure the pumpkins are 2 to 4 feet apart and there is enough room for the vines. If they are too close together, you can inadvertently encourage pests and diseases to grow and make germination difficult. If you're looking for a strain that works well in a smaller space or even in a container, try a micro strain like "Wee-B-Little" and train it to be a grid.
Plant pumpkins at the same depth that they were in their starter pot and make sure they have sufficient depth of soil below them. Your roots will grow down quickly to give them continuous access to water.
As pumpkin vines grow, they begin to produce flowers. Once 2-3 female pumpkin flowers have set (pollinated) fruit on each plant, cut off additional flowers to focus the vine's energy on the existing fruit. Pumpkins with too many fruits can result in pumpkins that are not as fragrant or smaller. As the pumpkins grow, keep them off the ground by placing straw mulch or even a piece of cardboard as a barrier between the fruit and dirt.
maintenance
A pumpkin vine can be extremely long and have multiple flowers. Source: Elizabeth Cramer
For first time gardeners learning how to grow a pumpkin, assess your soil and temperature as these plants can be very demanding. Start your pumpkins when the danger of frost has passed in an area where they have the soil nutrients, sun, and water they need.
Sun and temperature
Pumpkins grow pretty well in zones 3-10. They need full sun and will grow their fastest once temperatures hit the low 90s. This vine is very sensitive to cold and frost. So make sure the chance of frost has passed before planting them out. If necessary, use floating row covers or frost blankets to keep them warm.
Water and moisture
Pumpkins are thirsty growers and require at least 1 inch of water per week as they grow. Water in the morning to early afternoon and keep the leaves from getting wet to avoid disease. If possible, use a drip line or a drinking hose system to direct water deep into the root system.
When growing pumpkins, be careful not to over water them as this can lead to fungal problems and rot. While it can be tempting to water in the late afternoon, when the broad leaves have withered, hold back. The leaves are not necessarily withered due to lack of water. During a few hours in the hottest part of the day, water evaporates from the pumpkin leaves faster than it can absorb water through its roots. Stick to a morning watering routine while the pumpkin grows and your vines flourish.
ground
When growing pumpkins, place them at least 2 to 4 feet apart in well-drained, loamy soil. If you are growing in sandy soils, water more often or work with an extra organic material to help hold in moisture. Compost or manure are ideal because pumpkins are very heavy feeds and love the extra nutrients.
Pumpkins require soil with a minimum pH of 6.5, but prefer 6.5-7.0.
Fertilize
Pumpkin blossoms are bright pops of color. Source: Elizabeth Cramer
Pumpkins that are taken into the garden annually must be fertilized three times throughout their life cycle. Apply a balanced fertilizer at a young age to get your new vine off to the right start. Before the fruits set, add a balanced fertilizer to get a little more phosphorus and potassium. Finally, do a third application of fertilizer during fruit development. Be careful not to over-fertilize as this can create problems of its own!
clipping
Pumpkins don't need to be cut just for aesthetic reasons. The quality of a pumpkin fruit increases if only 2-3 grows per plant. Pumpkins produce male flowers first, then female flowers on the vines, and the male flowers may remain, but excess female flowers may need to be removed once some have been pollinated and begin to set fruit.
When a vine reaches 15 to 20 feet in length and secondary and tertiary vines begin to grow, trim the main vine back close to where the pumpkins will grow. This will slow the growth outward.
If multiple vines sprout from the larger main vine, only 2-3 vines are growing and producing. Be careful not to prune too early, as pruning the vines before the fruit is set can limit the amount of pumpkin fruit you can get.
Multiplication
Most pumpkins are grown from seeds, but in certain circumstances, rare and giant pumpkin growers have been known to root cuttings from plants. This is not necessary for the average grower looking to grow an established variety.
To grow from pumpkin seeds, start the seeds in bowls. If you want to sow directly, soak the seed for 24 hours and then sow it in small mounds or hills.
When you root a cut, dip the tip in the root hormone and place it in soil mixed with vermiculite. This can be difficult and error-prone, and the cut will not be produced until the following spring and summer seasons. This is a process best left to people who already know how to grow pumpkin plants very well!
At the end of the season, cut the vines back into the ground and remove any diseased leaves from the garden. Undiseased material is a great addition to your composter.
Harvesting and storing
Leaves protect the developing fruit. Source: Jennybach
Whether for decorating, carving or eating, all pumpkins require a little patience on the part of the grower. Wait for the stem to dry before harvesting. Harvesting too early can result in disappointing tastes or decorations that rot quickly.
harvest
It is time to reap the rewards of your hard work when the pumpkin stem turns a light brown color and the pumpkin skin has hardened.
Harvest your pumpkin fruits by cutting the stem 2-3 inches away from the fruit. Leave the pumpkin in place for at least two days to allow the cut stem to dry. If you are storing pumpkin fruits for the winter, leave the pumpkins outdoors for a week to heal before bringing them indoors. Wash the bark before putting it in with a mixture of a gallon of water and 1 tablespoon of bleach mixture. This will kill any fungus or insects that may linger on the fruit.
storage
Sugar squash will keep in a well-ventilated room for 1-3 months. If stored in a pantry, check regularly for signs of softening and rot. Make sure not too many are stacked on top of each other as this can speed up the decay.
Smaller decorative pumpkins can be kept on counters and tables for 2-3 months. You may want to put a layer of protection between them and the surface it is on as they can rot from below first.
If you plan to freeze pumpkins, your best bet is to peel, core, and chop the pumpkin before you do this. Freeze on biscuit trays and condense into gallon bags after freezing. For pressurized pumpkins, be sure to follow a tested and safe preservation method to avoid botulism and other food-borne diseases.
Pumpkin seeds can be cleaned and either saved for the following season or roasted with spices as a snack. To save them for future planting, let them dry out completely in a cool, dry, well-ventilated place.
Troubleshooting
A tangle of grapevines can surround a growing pumpkin. Source: Kevinptrovini
Various problems can lead to a lackluster harvest. It is important to identify these problems quickly so that they can be addressed before they can destroy your planned growing season.
Growing problems
sunburn is a surprisingly common problem for pumpkin growers, especially at the beginning of the season. Make sure to plant pumpkin vines after they are fully cured outdoors if possible. If you need to get them in the ground a little earlier, make sure they have shade during the hottest part of the day and gradually increase their exposure to the sun.
Excessive nitrogen is a pretty common problem. This can manifest as gigantic leaves, massive vines, and little to no fruit. Leaves can also divide because they grow faster than their own tissue can handle. Avoid over-fertilization.
Underwater is one of the biggest problems a vine can face. Too little water leads to wine stress, which can manifest itself in a number of ways. The leaves can be yellow or brown, the vine may be less vigorous, and the fruit may actually rot on the vine. Make sure your vine has evenly moist soil and is watered near the ground at least once a day.
Spray damage is also quite common in the pumpkin plant. Pumpkin leaves are surprisingly tender, although they look tough. A spray that is too harsh or using too many counteracting products can result in patterned yellowing and damage to the leaves. Using products at the wrong time of day is also a major problem. Apply your oils or pesticides in the evening so they can dry overnight. If not, apply early in the morning to keep them dry when the plants are in full sun.
But if your vine produces male and female flowers There are no fruitsThis can be due to a lack of pollination. To artificially pollinate your fruit, use a brush or cotton swab to collect pollen from a male flower. You can then brush the pollen in the center of the female flower to pollinate it.
Pests
Aphids are very common on pumpkins. While they often do not cause serious damage to the vigorous vines, they carry diseases that cause real problems. Insecticidal soap or neem oil can keep the population under control, but for a large outbreak, pyrethrin is a quick form of relief.
Thrips attacks leaves and flowers. On leaves, they produce a dotted yellow tint similar to the damage caused by aphids, but it is the damage they do to the flowers that poses the worse risk. They consume the pollen and the insides of flowers, rendering the flowers unable to produce pollen or fruit. They also spread diseases. As with aphids, treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil and use pyrethrin for large outbreaks.
One of the most annoying pests on a vine is that Pumpkin Borer. As the name suggests, these larvae literally burrow into the vine and then eat the soft inside, causing severe damage or death. Wrap the base of the vine in either cardboard or aluminum foil to prevent the drill from gaining access and watch your plants as they grow. Using BT sprays will kill adult moths and their larvae, and neem oil or horticultural oil will choke eggs.
The Squash bug is a super spreader on a pumpkin vine. These small black beetles appear in late summer and cause yellowed leaves, vines, and fruit damage. It is estimated that due to the gigantic size of the vines, nearly 70% of the eggs laid by these tiny irritants go undetected, causing a sudden population explosion when they all hatch. Coat all leaf and vine surfaces with neem oil to smother the eggs. If you see the adult pumpkin bugs, pyrethrin is a potent killer.
Army worms and Cabbage grinder are both moth larvae that quickly cause holes or skeletonized leaves. When you see these tiny caterpillar-like larvae, pick them up by hand and drown them in soapy water. BT spray on leaf surfaces is a great preventative.
Finally, some pests are common on newly transplanted vines, but as the stems mature they become less of a problem. These pests are Cucumber beetle, Cutworms, and Flea beetle. There are several methods to control all of these. Please see the individual articles for more information.
Diseases
mildew is caused by a fungus that thrives in warm and humid conditions. You can put it off by keeping the leaves dry. Remove heavily infected leaves and spray neem oil on lightly affected areas.
Wrong mildew appears as bright white or yellow spots on the leaves. It thrives in wet and cold weather and can be fatal to your plant if not treated early. Use a copper-based fungicide for treatment.
Rubber stem rot is caused by a fungus that attacks the stem, fruit, and leaf of the plant. You may see brown lesions or cancer on the stems. It is often associated with powdery mildew. Use a fungicide for immediate treatment and be careful not to add infected plants to the compost at the end of the season.
Anthracnose develops as brown or brown craters on the surface of the pumpkin. Over time, it can quickly gobble up the entire pumpkin. Treat early as it can destroy the plant if left alone. Use a copper fungicide to control.
Alternaria leaf spot and leaf rot are caused by two different forms of Alternaria fungus. Both respond well to copper fungicide sprays.
Both Septoria leaf spot and Cercospora leaf spot also respond well to copper fungicides.
frequently asked Questions
Tendrils help anchor the pumpkin vines. Source: Faith Unlimited
Q: How long does it take to grow a pumpkin?
A: Depending on the variety, it can take anywhere from 3 to 5 months from seed to fruit.
Q: How many pumpkins do you get per plant?
A: If you are growing a large variety, you can expect to get 4-8 pumpkins per healthy plant. For a medium to small variety, expect around 6-15 pumpkins.
Q: Are coffee grounds good for pumpkins?
A: Used coffee grounds are effectively neutral in terms of pH. When not in use, they still contain some acids, but when they are used, they have leached out those tasty acids to make the popular caffeinated drink. Coffee grounds aren't usually bad for your plants, but it's best to precompost them first.
Q: Should I put straw under my pumpkins?
A: Definitely. A thick layer of straw about 2 to 3 inches high can reduce weed spread and keep your pumpkins off the surface of the soil. You can also put a piece of cardboard under the fruit, but the straw will provide padding for the pumpkins.
About the writer Elizabeth Cramer:
Elizabeth Cramer is a cook, plant lover and potter. She loves teaching others how to cook and growing their own food. The native Californian, who spent her childhood within earshot of the orangutans at the San Diego Zoo, now lives on the beach, where she fights against powdery mildew and farmer's tan.
Her love for food and where it comes from stems from her time in Spain as a teenager, where she lived in an olive oil factory against the wind, drove to school among olive and orange groves and ate fresh local food. Right after college, she joined the community gardens and really fell in love with growing plants. As an obsessive plant, she recently started canning in an effort to achieve her goal of living 100% on her own land.
The green fingers behind this article:
Lorin Nielsen
Lifelong gardener