Rising winter pumpkin: the favourite meals of autumn

Imagine you are comfortable inside, watching the snow fall outside and enjoying a warm dish with a rich, aromatic pumpkin. Sounds good, right? Even though it's spring, you can prepare this food from your garden. Growing winter squash is very easy and fruitful enough to last all winter.

As you probably know, there are many types of pumpkin – over 700! They are divided into two categories depending on the growing season and storage.

Summer squash plants produce quickly and their fruits have a very thin skin (think zucchini).

Winter squash, on the other hand, can be harvested in autumn. They have hard, thick skin that allows them to store well all winter (think of pumpkin).

In contrast to summer pumpkins, winter pumpkins can grow and grow without affecting their texture or taste. Many can easily grow over two feet long. Some varieties are bred for their size and participated in competitions such as pumpkins. At the same time, others are so small that they are considered the perfect portion size for one person. Flavors also vary, but most have a sweet nut or pumpkin flavor.

Growing winter squash takes up a lot of space, but is a fun addition to the garden. It has large, round leaves and sagging, bright yellow flowers in summer. The fruit bowl is available in a variety of shapes and colors and also serves as an autumn decoration. Most winter gourd plants are sprawling vines that can be between three and 15 feet long. There are also bush varieties that are perfect for smaller spaces and containers.

Squash comes from Central and South America and is therefore definitely not hardy. In zones 2 to 11, however, it is very easy to grow as an annual. With proper planning, you can harvest the goods before the autumn frost can reach the plant.

There's a lot more to learn about this plant, so let's get started! You will find that pumpkins as ornamental plants, garden additives and of course as delicious food have a lot to offer.

Good products for growing winter squash:

Brief instructions on care

Winter squash comes in all shapes, sizes, colors and flavors. Source: Suzie's Farm

Winter pumpkin varieties

Round or flat, smooth or rough, solid color or two … you have a large selection! To simplify the different types of pumpkin and pumpkin, we have sorted them by shape into categories. Here are some of our favorite pumpkin varieties, though there are hundreds more.

Note that some varieties are larger and grow more pumpkin per plant than others. If you have little space, choose your varieties accordingly. Most varieties produce more than enough fruit for a small family, so don't overdo it!

Extended

Butternut and carnival pumpkin varieties have a similar color, but a different shape. Source: Sea coast

These varieties appear stretched. We are sure that you will recognize the classic butternut squash, but there are many, many others. We have selected a good selection to give you an idea of ​​the extended options.

Heart-shaped

What can't you love about heart-shaped pumpkins? This funny shape is noticeable when you cut the fruit in half. Acorn squash, a popular variety, fits into this category just like the others below.

Round

Kabocha pumpkin is a popular winter pumpkin variety. Source: Suzie's Farm

This list barely scratches the surface of any round pumpkin out there. The size of these can vary from a portion size to sugar gourds to huge, competitive pumpkins. Here are just a few of our favorites.

Other

We covered the basic shapes, but nature is rarely that geometric. There are all kinds of crazy fruits like the turban pumpkin! We have divided it into another category.

plants

Since they are annual pumpkins, winter gourds are usually planted from seeds, although some starts can occur in a kindergarten. Start early by planting your seeds indoors in late winter or early spring. You cannot go into the ground until all chances of frost have gone and the ground is about 60 ° F or warmer. The time for this depends entirely on where you live. So see the local weather stations for an estimate.

Start your pumpkin seeds up to a month before planting. This gives you as much leeway as possible without overcrowding the plants. To promote germination, soak the seeds overnight and then plant them 2-3 inches deep. Keep the soil evenly moist and at 60-105 ° F (85-90 ° F is preferred). A seedling heating mat is very useful to keep the soil warm.

It takes about a week for the seeds to germinate, and another 5-10 days for the seedlings to appear. Use quick-degrading containers such as peat pots that can go straight into the ground to make planting easier.

Before you plant in the soil, you need to prepare the soil. Depending on how many plants you grow, you will need a lot of space. Each pumpkin plant must be 6 to 8 feet apart and from neighboring plants. Grape varieties can be trained to climb a trellis, but they still need a lot of space (more on that later!). Prepare the soil by adding a lot of organic material in the fall before planting.

If you are planting directly into the soil, put 4-5 seeds in each spot. As they grow, gradually dilute the runts until you have one strong plant per spot. Instead of pulling them out, which can destroy the other roots, pinch them down to the ground level. Regardless of whether you are planting directly or transplanting seedlings, you must form small hills for each plant. The hills should be about 2 feet in diameter so the vines can spread from the base of the plant. If you live in a very dry area, flip the hills instead to store moisture.

Winter squash can also be grown entirely in containers, which is easiest for bush cards. The advantage of this is that you start early and end late in the season by moving it indoors when it's freezing.

maintenance

Squash grows in almost every shape and size imaginable. Source: SummerTomato

Growing winter squash requires roughly the same level of commitment as most garden vegetables. However, it is a long season, so you need a good routine. Here's how to grow winter squash.

Sun and temperature

Despite its name, winter squash is not frost hardy. It must have temperatures of 50-90 ° F, which can be reached in zones 2-11 from spring to autumn. Higher temperatures allow the fruits to ripen, but can damage the flowers. Plant your pumpkin in full sun and away from shady plants.

Irrigation and humidity

Keep the soil evenly moist by watering it once or twice a week. These plants retain the water well, but can quickly go out and wither in intense heat. In the summer you may water daily, so it is beneficial to set up an irrigation system.

To prevent disease, just water at the base of the plant to keep the rest dry. It is best to water in the morning so that excess moisture can evaporate from the heat of the afternoon. High humidity increases the risk of pests and diseases, but we cannot control as much as the pumpkin grows outside. If you live in a damp area, pay close attention to symptoms.

ground

Pumpkins have flat roots, so you need to keep the soil moist. In order to prevent them from becoming excessively moist, it is very important to use well-drained soil. If you water, the floor should absorb it quickly without leaving large puddles behind. However, it needs to hold some moisture for at least a day or two. Spread mulch on the plant base to keep weeds and moisture out.

When growing winter squash, the soil should be very fertile. Add a lot of organic material in the autumn before planting so that it disintegrates by spring. If necessary, you can apply an additional top dressing made of composted material in summer. Your soil should be loose and loamy. Squash is not too picky about pH, but is best for a range from 5.5 to 7.0.

Fertilize

Winter squash has a long growing season and needs nutrients to maintain it. You should supplement with fertilizer at least once or twice during the season. Some gardeners even use it every two weeks! If you want to fertilize more often, use a fast-acting liquid fertilizer. Otherwise, the slow release granulate works great.

Use a fertilizer that contains a little less nitrogen. Nitrogen promotes green growth at the expense of fruit production. A good NPK is 5-10-10. You can also use a balanced 5-5-5 fertilizer with occasional additions of seaweed meal and bone meal.

Pruning / training

Winter squash vines should have no problem climbing onto a 5 to 8 foot grid. Insert the prop when you plant the pumpkin for the first time and let them do their thing. If the vines do not come up with the idea, carefully hook them into the grid to promote upward growth. A loose loop made of plastic garden tape can provide additional hold. Keep in mind that the fruit may also need additional support in its development.

You will see moderate growth first and then a vine in late summer. If you have little space, you can prune the unruly vines (this is completely optional). However, try to hold back until pumpkin grows on the vines. Then when you prune, the energy goes into fruit growth.

Pumpkin and pumpkin plants have primary, secondary and tertiary vines. The pumpkin grows on secondary vines, so you should leave them alone. Follow the pruning of the tertiary vines to keep the plant healthy. It is also best to prune when the plant is dry to prevent disease from getting into the sores.

When pruning, it is better not to do enough than to prune too much. Pumpkin production depends on the leaves. So don't remove too many. Keep in mind that pumpkin, although it looks like a sturdy plant, can break if handled improperly. Be gentle with them, the roots and the young pumpkin.

Propagation

Since they are annuals, it is not worth growing them with anything other than seeds. Fortunately, the seeds grow quickly and easily. However, if they don't suit your style, you may be able to find starts in a kindergarten.

It is possible to store your own seeds, but much more difficult than ordering some online for a few dollars. Many pumpkins are hybrids that produce sterile seeds. There is also a good chance that cross-pollination has taken place and the seeds are not of the correct type.

If you still want to try it, choose a healthy, ripe pumpkin that is an heirloom variety with no weak spots. When ripe, the seeds turn dark brown. Separate them from the meat and throw them into a container with water. Leave the seeds under water for 2-4 days. During this time, viruses die and good seeds sink to the bottom. Remove the good seeds and let them air dry.

Once they are 100 percent dry, store the seeds in a container labeled with the date and variety of the winter squash. Store them in the refrigerator or other cool and dry place. The seeds are viable for about three years, but should be used as soon as possible.

Harvest and store

There are many lesser known species, like this crookneck and Lakota squash. Source: Suzie's Farm

You've been working on cultivating these beauties all spring and summer, and now you can really enjoy them. After harvesting, the pumpkin is easy to store and feeds you and your family throughout the winter.

harvest

Depending on when you started seed, you will harvest in late summer and early fall. Make sure you finish your entire harvest before the first frost sets in, otherwise you will have less fruit than planned!

When the winter squash is ripe, the skin is thick and hard. It is often so difficult that you cannot dent it with your thumbnail. It also sounds hollow when you hit it with your fist and have no weak spots. It will have taken on its full color but will be dull.

To avoid injuring the rest of the plant, cut the pumpkin off the vine with a hair clipper or knife. Adding a few inches of stem will help the pumpkin to store longer. However, don't pick it up on a stick, or you may get a smashed pumpkin.

Leave your pumpkins in the sun for a week or two after harvesting. This allows them to heal, a preservation method that hardens the skin even more and eliminates soft spots. If the weather doesn't allow it, place it in the sunniest part of your house. When washing the pumpkin, wait until you are ready to cook it.

If you're adventurous in the kitchen, try harvesting some of the male flowers. They can be harvested throughout the season. Cut them off the stem in the afternoon when they are fully open. But don't take too many! These flowers are essential for pollination.

storage

When properly stored, the pumpkin usually lasts 6 months (depending on the type of winter squash). Store the pumpkin in a dry, dark and cool place (not cold). You can also cook it first, dice or mash the meat, and then freeze or can. Freezing keeps them for about 3 months, while canned pulp lasts 1-2 years.

There are hundreds of pumpkin recipes. The meat is popular in soups, pasta, casseroles, cakes and even salads. The rich texture and taste make winter pumpkin meat also well suited to stand alone. It is delicious when toasted and topped with butter and brown sugar, which is my personal favorite!

Don't forget the seeds. Pumpkin seeds are edible. If you don't keep them for planting, you can still enjoy them as food. Roasted pumpkin seeds can be kept for one to two weeks. For long-term storage, rinse all of the pumpkin juice thoroughly, remove the remaining thread-like material, and air dry it until it is completely dry. Store in a dark place in an airtight container with a moisture absorbent packing. You can then soak them for 24-48 hours to rehydrate and fry them later.

Carefully dip the flowers in cold water and store them in the fridge. Dry them in a salad spinner or on a paper towel. They are usually beaten and fried or used as wraps like dumplings. You can also roast the seeds like pumpkin seeds.

Troubleshooting

A mixture of different winter pumpkin varieties. Source: Allisondan

Pests and diseases are a dangerous threat to the growing winter gourd. So you need to look for symptoms. Catching them early can make the difference between life and death for your plants.

Growing problems

Pumpkin plants grow separate male and female flowers pollinate by hand if the local pollinators let you down. The male flowers bloom first, followed closely by the female. Only the female flowers will bear fruit. So don't be surprised if the males eventually fade away. You don't have to be a trained botanist to distinguish a girl's flower from a boy's flower. Just look at what the flower is growing on. Males bloom from a thin stem, while females sit on egg-shaped bulges – a pumpkin in the making!

A common symptom with most types of pumpkin is wilting leaves. This is usually a sign that the plant is under water. Give him a deep, hearty drink and it should recover quickly. If this doesn't seem to be the case, try improving your fertilizer game. In the worst case, this can be a symptom of insect damage or disease. These problems are usually accompanied by other symptoms, which we will discuss below.

Pests

Aside from some resistant pumpkin types, most pumpkins are very susceptible to insects. If you don't want to spend your summer fighting pests, we recommend using floating row covers until the plants bloom. They do an excellent job of preventing insects from laying eggs on your plant. Regardless, here are the most common pests to watch out for:

Pumpkin drill is exactly what it sounds like. This insect bores through pumpkin vines, winter and summer pumpkins alike. It is actually the larvae of the black and red clearwing moth. They tunnel into the stems and feed on the interior. You will notice small holes in the vines with food, a sawdust-like rubble, around them. Prevent drills by dusting the plant regularly with diatomaceous earth and wrapping the stems in aluminum foil. Neem oil chokes the eggs, so use it often. Good environmental control is to add useful nematodes to the soil.

If you notice wilting, discolored leaves and dying pumpkins, you may have one Squash bug Infestation on your hands. These pests are gray-brown and have flat, shield-shaped bodies. They suck out plant sap and replace it with toxins that often transmit diseases. Avoid pumpkin bugs with diatomaceous earth or neem oil like the drill.

The Cucumber beetle does not sound like a threat to crushing plants, but infestation is practically a death sentence. The adult beetles feed on their vines while their larvae feed on the roots. They can transmit dangerous diseases like wilted bacteria. There are many types of cucumber beetles that look a little different. In our article you will find reference pictures. Pyrethrin spray is useful against these guys, as are ladybugs and lacewings.

As if all of that isn't enough to worry about, you need to keep an eye out Aphids. They may be small, but a large number of aphids suck your plants dry. Your pumpkin turns yellow, withers and is exposed to plant pathogens. Insecticidal soap is excellent control, but a mixture of water and dish soap works well too. Diatomaceous earth, neem oil, ladybirds and lacewings also prevent aphid populations.

Diseases

There are some disease-resistant types of pumpkin. You can further prevent diseases by fighting pests and keeping the leaves dry. A general method of prevention is to slide a piece of wood or plastic under each fruit to separate it from the ground. This reduces the exposure of the fruit to pests and diseases and at the same time prevents weak spots.

Bacteria wither is spread by cucumber beetles and can quickly affect your plants. It causes the entire plant, including the pulp and skin, to wither. Once infected, you can no longer cure your vines from bacterial withering. For this reason, it's incredibly important to focus on prevention – especially by eliminating cucumber beetles.

Mosaic virus is not always immediately recognizable, but ultimately causes cupped leaves and strange color patterns. The plant can become distorted, lose its strength and produce swollen pumpkins. The mosaic virus is generally spread via seeds, so it can be prevented by buying from a reputable seller and not storing your own seeds. It can also spread from cucumber beetles. Once you see signs of infection, you need to destroy the entire plant before passing the disease on to its neighbors.

Finally, pay attention to mildew. This mushroom looks like a dust of white powder on the pumpkin leaves. It blocks the sun so the plant cannot photosynthesize. As a result, it has slowed growth nutrient deficiencies. This mushroom is promoted by damp leaves, so keep it as dry as possible. If your pumpkin plant is densely covered with grapevines, prune some to ensure good ventilation. If your plants still have mildew, use a copper fungicide to control them.

frequently asked Questions

A rainbow of pumpkin colors can be found in nature. Source: La Chachalaca Fotografía

Q: How long does it take for winter squash to grow?

A: Most pumpkin varieties take 80-110 days to produce ripe pumpkin meat. They are planted in early spring and are ready for autumn harvest.

Q: How do you harden winter squash?

A: After cutting the vine, leave your pumpkin in the sun for 1-2 weeks. This "heals" the skin and eliminates soft spots.

Q: Will the winter squash ripen after the harvest?

A: Yes, it can ripen slightly during curing. However, we recommend waiting until it is ripe before harvesting.

The green thumbs behind this article:
Rachel Garcia
Juicy fanatic
Lorin Nielsen
Lifetime gardener