Iconic roses are famous for being fussy when often they just need to be relocated. In the right conditions, they’re quite carefree growers. With the proper siting, roses are long-lived and offer multi-season appeal with blooms, fragrance, rosehips, and attractive foliage.
The right rose in the right place is forgiving. Depending on the species and variety, roses adapt to various conditions and thrive with straightforward best cultural practices. Once established, they’re relatively low-maintenance and reliable performers.
The time may come when it’s necessary to transplant roses for better health. Whether young or mature, it’s possible to relocate the flowering shrubs successfully. Early fall is a prime time to make the move. If your rose shows signs of stress, assess the need to relocate.
Relocation Overview
Cut them back to boost root health, which can be key before transplanting them.
The ideal time to transplant roses is during frost-free soil conditions in moderate to cool temperatures of fall and spring. Transplanting in the fall, six to eight weeks before your anticipated first frost, establishes roots before winter extremes.
Cut back the canes by one-third (and as low as twelve inches above the ground for dormant roses) so it can focus on root development rather than sustaining upper growth. Water deeply before digging and transplanting.
Dig a wide berth to keep as many roots as possible intact. Lift the entire plant. If the rose is large and mature, place it on a tarp or drop cloth and pull it to its new home.
Move the specimen to its newly prepped site with amended soil and a hole twice as big as its root ball. Install and water deeply. Hold off on fertilizing until new growth emerges in the spring.
Maintain a three-inch layer of mulch year-round to retain moisture, regulate temperature, and suppress weeds. Mulch cools roots in the summer and insulates them in the winter. It also adds nutrients to the soil as it decomposes.
Lack of Flowers
Their glossy, dark green leaves can be stunning, but the flowers stand out the most among these shrubs.
Since we grow roses for their stunning floral qualities, having a shrub with only leafy growth is disappointing, even if those leaves are handsome in glossy, dark green. Not only do we miss out on the beloved fully-petaled and fragrant flowers, but we also lose any showy rosehips that follow. Shiny, colorful, shapely rosehips persist into winter, adding extended interest and wildlife forage.
If your rose isn’t flowering or is showing sparse blooming, several key cultural factors may be the source. Unless you’ve made a pruning mistake that prevented bud set, the first cause to look for is sun exposure. Overfertilizing, over or under-watering, and pests and diseases are other culprits.
Too Much Shade
They love full sun but can also benefit from shade.
Roses in too much shade benefit if relocated to a sunnier locale. These vigorous bloomers grow best in full sun, with six or more hours of sunlight daily. Some cultivars tolerate partial shade, needing four or more hours of sun exposure for growth and flowering.
Morning sunlight in the mix of daily hours is ideal. In hot southern climates, roses appreciate dappled light or shade protection in the intense afternoon rays.
Observe your site’s sunlight throughout the day. Conditions change over time as plants mature, canopy cover increases, and with new structures. A once-sunny spot may now be more shadowed.
Overfertilizing
Avoid using too much fertilizer, which could negatively affect their blooming.
Sometimes, we give too much of a good thing. An excess of nitrogen from fertilizer yields leafy growth but inhibits flowering. Too much nitrogen also causes weak stems on the prolific new growth, resulting in a lack of vigor.
Plants benefit from added nutrition in the spring, including seaweed or alfalfa extracts. Opt for a balanced blend of specialized rose fertilizer with phosphorous to promote blooming.
Overfertilizing doesn’t mean you must relocate your roses. Natural rainfall and irrigation will help remove the extra nutrients over time. Under signs of severe stress, lift the entire plant. Remove existing soil and replenish it with a fresh blend of native soil and organic matter, or move the plant to a fresh home.
Dropped Buds and Yellowing Leaves
Stress can make the blooms droop and the leaves turn yellow.
If the soil stays too wet or too dry, you may see signs of leaves turning yellow and buds dropping to the ground. Both situations stress the shrub.
Water fluctuations may be due to seasonal conditions or over or under-irrigating for your soil type. Poor soils contribute significantly to a lack of overall health.
Your site may be in a low area with moisture and runoff or a sandy berm where water drains away quickly. Challenging sites benefit from soil amendments or transplanting roses to their best foundations for moisture and soil quality.
Soil Quality
Rich soil that drains well is ideal for these plants.
Fortunately, roses grow in a variety of soil conditions, but you may need to relocate if their ground is very poor. Their ideal soils are rich in organic matter and well-draining.
To irrigate efficiently, it helps to know how local soils absorb and retain water. A simple soil test helps with this information. Typical soil types include clay, sand, silt, and organic material blends.
- Clay soils absorb water slowly and hold water longer. They require a lot of water to penetrate deeply but tend to lean overly wet.
- Sandy soils, on the other hand, absorb water quickly and drain quickly. They dry out fast and benefit from watering deeply and more often.
- Loamy soils are best for roses and many other plants. They are high in organic matter and allow for aeration, moisture retention, and good drainage.
In poor soils (sandy or clay), incorporate three to six inches of compost derived from completely broken-down plant material. Compost helps with soil aeration, moisture retention, drainage, and nutrition.
If your soil holds moisture and tends to stay wet, avoid overwatering. Too much water or “wet feet” promotes fungal diseases like root rot.
Over or Under Watering
They require regular watering during their growing season.
Roses generally require about one inch of water per week during the growing season. Medium soil moisture is best, and a good way to determine the watering sweet spot is to check soil moisture regularly and observe the plants.
Underwatered roses wilt, and their leaves turn yellow and crisp. Roses also wilt during periods of extreme heat, even in moist soils. Leaves also turn yellow in cases of overwatering, but instead of being crisp, they’ll be soft and spongey. If the soil feels dry to the depth of an inch or two (one to two knuckles deep), it’s time to water.
Once established, the hardy growers don’t need supplemental water with average rainfall (and even in drought). Watering deeply—but infrequently—encourages a deep root system to support the plant during high heat. The robust root system will also support the shrub through winter extremes.
Outgrowing Its Space
They can grow quickly and excessively, making the location too small for them to thrive.
Is your rose growing too vigorously or bigger than you imagined? This is a happy challenge to foster years of enjoyment. Moving the selection to a larger space will help it achieve its mature habit without stunted pruning.
Excessive pruning to keep a small form during the growing season can reduce the number of buds. Constant pruning also directs energy into producing more growth, impeding natural cycles.
When it comes to climbing and rambling roses, relocating can dramatically improve appearance and tidiness. We may underestimate their sizing and quick production, providing insufficient support structures at the offset. Robust climbers need sturdy supports with ample height or length, tying off, and training as canes develop. Transplanting them or installing new supports brings lasting benefits.
Plagued By Pests and Diseases
These bushes are prone to various pests and diseases.
If a specimen experiences recurrent pest and disease issues, it may be in the wrong site altogether due to various cultural conditions. Consider relocating severely impacted roses to the trash or burn pile; these aren’t thriving in your garden. Remove any with serious diseases like rose rosette virus, which spreads with no cure.
For mild, recurrent infestations or fungal issues, monitor the site for sun, water, airflow, soil quality, and fertilization. Choose a disease-resistant plant like old garden roses, Earth-Kind, or other strong performers, providing the appropriate cultural conditions as the first steps to a healthy and beautiful shrub.
Roses are susceptible to black spot, powdery mildew, rust, and rose rosette. They may incur aphids, beetles, scale, and spider mites, among other insects.
Planting in full sun with plenty of air circulation and average moisture helps stave off infections. Pruning and removing diseased leaves helps prevent the spread of pests and diseases. For best health, remove fallen leaves and flowers from the base of the plant during the growing season and in winter.
Companion plantings for roses, like lavender, catmint, allium, geranium, and agastache, help repel pests like aphids and beetles. They’ll also attract beneficial insects, creating a well-rounded garden system.
Overcrowding
They tend to outgrow areas where they’re crowded together.
Some shrubs outgrow their original planting area while others become overcrowded due to close spacing. The rose may impede other plants, or vice versa, as they mature.
Overcrowded conditions lead to pest and fungal problems as airflow decreases. Air circulation is vital to overall health and prevents damp, humid conditions from causing foliar issues.
When possible, trim surrounding plants to promote airflow. Otherwise, it’s time to move to larger real estate away from chronically cramped arrangements.
Winter Damage and Dieback
There are many ways to protect the bush during cold months.
If you’ve had the specimen for at least a few seasons and notice recurrent damage after winter, it may need extra protection. While they are exceptionally cold-hardy, overwintering depends on the variety and microclimate conditions.
If you’ve already taken extra measures to protect against winter extremes like mulching, piling leaves, or burlap wraps and still experience cane dieback, relocation to a sheltered spot may be the answer. The selection may be borderline in your growing area.
Look for a site that protects against winter winds. Cold winds are extremely drying and may cause reduced vigor come spring. More sun in a south-facing situation may add warmth on freezing days.
Aesthetics
Moving around these shrubs can be a great way to mix up a garden’s appearance.
Lastly, the rose may fall whim to garden expansion and rearranging. For me, moving plants around is an irresistible activity. You may want to relocate existing roses because they’re the perfect complement to a new bed or arrangement. Expansions and refreshments call for creativity.
With the proper care, moving that rose is achievable, ensuring the new conditions are optimal and the soils amended. Post-care watering is essential to relishing these long-lived performers for years to come.
