Rising hops for home-brewed beer

Summer is coming and with it come garden barbecues, cool evenings on the terrace and refreshing beer. Why not upgrade the summer experience this year by growing and making your own beer? You get this satisfying, home-brewed drink and a nice addition to your garden: hops!

Hops, a key ingredient in beer, are great, decorative climbers. It grows quickly and large, making it perfect for pergolas and other screen coverings. The abundant green leaves and unique flowers fill any structure quickly. Plus, this plant has a pine scent and attracts butterflies! It's exactly what you need for a relaxing, summery atmosphere.

This system is relatively low maintenance, but still requires commitment. A hop plant is 15 to 20 years old (the same lifespan as a house cat!). It becomes part of the architecture and grows up to 20 feet tall. In fact, most gardeners let the hops climb up the side of their house.

There is a lot of information about growing your own hops. So this article covers all the basics. Once you get these done, you can take up the niche hobby of beer growing and brewing!

Good products for growing hops:

Brief instructions for care

For a home brewer, growing hops can be a huge benefit. Source: katerha

Everything about hops

Hop leaves are green and lush on their vines. Source: Peter Hellberg

Hop plants come from Europe, Southwest Asia and North America. However, the hop plants used in commercial production in the USA are usually a European variety. There is great variety around the world, although some are patented by commercial producers. Most varieties are said to be either bitter or flavored. Some species grow faster than others. So do your homework and choose a variety that will suit your region's growing season.

Humulus lupulus, which literally means "little wolf", is an essential part of homebrewing. Its varieties are largely responsible for bitterness, aroma and preservation. In fact, in 1516 the Germans laid down the "Bavarian Purity Law", which prescribed the use of hops in beer. They are brewed to extract alpha acids and essential oils that add bitterness and aroma, respectively.

These are dioecious plants, meaning they are either male or female plants. The female flowers are used to make beer, and the male flowers can pollinate female flowers to become seeds. Seeds in the hop cones lead to negative results in the taste of your future beer. So you want an exclusively female hop garden. Since planting from seeds doesn't guarantee you will get all of the female plants, rhizomes are the preferred method of planting. Rhizomes will breed a clone of the original plant.

Female hop flowers are strobiles, just like pine trees. In fact, they look like tiny, very leafy pine cones. The plants themselves are "bines," which sounds like an invented word, but actually means that they climb with shoots instead of tendrils. Underground, the rhizome root system grows both vertically and horizontally.

You will get some hop cones in the second year of this plant's life, but it will take 3 years for the rhizomes to produce a good harvest. Every year after the harvest, each vine should be cut to the ground. The rhizome root system will overwinter and produce new shoots in spring.

The only downside is that you have a 3% chance of developing dermatitis from growing your own hops. The juices exposed at harvest have something that may cause a reaction in some gardeners, and the vines have tiny hook hairs that can cause skin irritation. We strongly recommend wearing work gloves and goggles while working with your plants.

Plant hops

Once established, rhizomes are difficult to transplant. Hence, it is important to plant them in the correct area. Here's what you should know about growing hop rhizomes.

preparation

Let's start with the location. Hop plants need 6-8 hours of direct sunlight every day. If you plan to grow hops on the side of your home, a south-facing orientation is best. Until the soil is well ventilated and even and stones or debris are removed. Add a nitrogen-rich fertilizer such as blood meal to the soil. Mix in the fertilizer at least a foot deep (the rhizomes will appreciate it!).

Make sure you have enough vertical space. The bines only occupy 3 feet horizontally, but they require a lot of vertical growth space. They absolutely require a support system that is at least 12 feet tall (18-20 is preferable). Hop trees grow well on vertically draped cords. You will need one piece of heavy duty yarn per plant, with your strands of yarn 3 to 5 feet apart. String it from a tall post, fence, or the edge of the roof.

plants

As mentioned earlier, we are planting hop rhizomes instead of seeds. Choose a trusted source of rhizomes as many diseases can be transmitted through rhizomes. A bad hop rhizome will grow an infected plant that can spread disease to the rest of your garden.

Plant your hop rhizome as soon as all frost chances are gone. Keep the rhizomes slightly moist in a dark, cool place while waiting.

Plant the rhizomes horizontally near the ground directly in front of the trellis and cover them with a mound of earth. To keep moisture and weeds out, cover the rhizome mounds with mulch (compost is preferred). From here on, keep the soil constantly moist.

train

Over time, most rhizome varieties will grow around 5 shoots, which we will train to climb the trellis. When they are about 6 inches long, gently wrap the containers around the carrier in a clockwise direction. You will need to monitor their growth for at least a week to make sure they are climbing properly.

maintenance

The hop cone develops from the humble hop flower. Source: Hans S.

Daily care for this sturdy, perennial plant is pretty simple. With a little practice, your hop gardens will grow just as well as any commercial hop variety.

Sun and temperature

In zones 4-8, most hop varieties survive all year round. In winter, they can usually withstand temperatures as low as -20 ° F. The ideal temperature during the growing season is 60-65 ° F (depending on the variety). However, they should be fine in warmer temperatures as long as the other growing conditions are met.

As mentioned earlier, hop vines need full sun for 6-8 hours. They also tolerate partial shade. The best thing you can do to ensure good lighting is to choose a sunny location.

Water and moisture

The younger your hop, the more water its roots need. The soil should never dry out, so water at least a few times a week. Only water at ground level as excess moisture on the leaves can encourage bacterial growth. If you want to use an automatic irrigation system, drip irrigation is best.

A good rule of thumb for most plants is to water in the morning to allow extra moisture to dry with the sun. Since hops are temperate plants, the average humidity should be fine. Hop plants are somewhat drought tolerant, but we don't recommend pushing them.

Growing hops at home eliminates the need for watering in winter. A lot of moisture and nutrients are stored in the roots.

ground

All of this irrigation makes good drainage a must. Good, loamy soil should have some moisture in it without the roots getting damp. You also need rich soil in order to grow hops. Before each growing season, add some organic material or fertilizer to bolster the nutrients. You should also keep the area free from weed growth.

The hop plant needs a slightly acidic soil pH (6.0-8.0). There are many soil additives that increase acidity, including blood meal. If you don't know the pH of your soil, check out our recommendations for a pH test kit.

Fertilize

For optimal growth, fertilize your hop plants once a month during the growing season. Use a nitrogen-rich fertilizer (such as blood meal) from spring through early summer. Plants need a lot of nitrogen for green growth, especially those as big and vibrant as hops! For the rest of the season, use a balanced fertilizer, preferably one that releases slowly, to ensure gradual but continuous nutrition.

Pruning / training

The hop containers can reach a staggering 20 feet or more in height. Source: m.gifford

Pruning is essential in any type of viticulture, including bines! From year two, cut back new shoots very early in the season before training begins. This ensures strong and complete secondary subjects every year. Check your strain to determine when to make this early pruning as different strains have different needs. In addition, plants should not be pruned this way for the first year. This only applies to subsequent years.

Training your bines often starts in early May for people in the Pacific Northwest, but it can happen sooner or later for other regions in the US. Take 3-4 bins and wrap them in a clockwise spiral around the string support. You should make sure to keep turning them up until they are no longer easily accessible. At this point, the bines should continue running the line by themselves.

You can also prune the lower leaves in mid-summer. As long as the upper vines have plenty of leaves, they are no longer needed. They can actually be an obstacle as pests like to hide in low-hanging foliage. You also have a lower risk of moisture buildup and illness.

Each hop plant must also be pruned at the end of the season, which we will discuss in more detail in the section on harvesting.

Multiplication

Mature hop plants produce runners that can be cut and planted. In the spring, cut off some runners and cut them into 6-inch sections. Each piece must have at least two buds. Stick the cuttings upright in small mounds (2-3 per mound). With sufficient moisture, drainage and sunlight, they should get to the floor and grating in no time.

If your hop plant is several years old, it is a good candidate for rhizome division. In the spring, dig up part of the hop plant and use a spade to chop the rhizomes in two. You may be able to obtain a wide variety of cuttings from it, depending on its size. Like the runner cuttings, each section must have a bud before planting.

Harvesting and storing

You can harvest the vines and then hand pick their cones. Source: JCHaywire

After a long summer in the dirt, it's finally time to harvest! Then you can start your own batch of brew.

harvest

The growing season depends on where you live, but you will likely harvest in late summer or early fall. In warm climates, you may be able to harvest the last cones in December! By now you've seen your hops grow lots of light green cones. As they mature, they begin to dry out inside. When pressed, they feel light and then jump back into shape. A harvested hop cone clearly smells of grass and onions. If they start to stink and change color, they are overripe.

Pick the hops as they ripen, or cut the entire vine and harvest them all at once. From there, you need to completely dry out the hops. Spread them out in a dark place and turn them over as needed. Once dry, they snap in half when bent.

After harvesting, prepare the plant for winter. Cut the vines to just above the surface of the soil. Don't worry, they will grow again next year! For additional protection in cold climates, cover the floor with mulch or a tarp. You may also want to take down the grille so it doesn't become weatherproof in winter.

storage

After your hops are dry, it's time to do homebrewing! The Homebrewers Association has some great tutorials on how to make beer, as well as the ingredients and tools you will need.

Fresh hops should be stored in a sealed container or plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to two days. If you don't want to make a wet hop beer out of it afterward, put the hops in the freezer. They should last for a couple of years, although it's always best to use them ASAP.

You can use a dehydrator for dry storage. Make sure your dehydrator never goes above 140 degrees Fahrenheit. Too much heat affects the taste of the hops. This is preferred by most home brewers because dry hops have a moisture content of around 10%, comparable to commercially available dry hop pellets.

Troubleshooting

Many gardeners grow hops by the side of their home or in an arbor. Source: deege

You shouldn't run into too many problems with this plant. Hops are pretty robust! However, there are a few things to look out for.

Growing problems

In case you notice stunted growth One of its basic needs is not met in a hop plant. Make sure there is the right amount of sun and water, that the pH of the soil is good, and that it is free from pests and diseases. If all goes well, try adding extra nitrogen and water to the soil. If your hop plant is still in its first year, it will usually grow more slowly than usual.

Pests

Is there anything Aphids Do not eat? These common pests feed on hop cones and leave a weakened plant. Fortunately, insecticidal soap can get rid of them just fine. You will also find that neem oil is a good remedy and preventative. Beneficial insects like ladybugs and lacewings are also good options.

Spider mites have the same effect on plants as aphids, along with yellow spots on the leaves and superfine webs. They like to hide and lay their eggs on the underside of the leaves. Spider mites can be combated with pyrethrin spray and neem oil. To prevent them, fight fires with fire by sacrificing useful mites to the spider mites. Ladybugs and lacewings are very useful here too.

You might come across too Cutwormsespecially with young plants. These hungry caterpillars chew holes through hop leaves. BT spray is very effective in poisoning these pests. Diatomaceous earth is also a great choice for getting rid of cut worms. A great way to prevent cutworm infestation on your hops is to use coarse mulch around the base of plants. The texture irritates the caterpillars and keeps them away from their location. You can also wrap cardboard toilet paper tubes around the containers as they grow to prevent cut worms from reaching them.

Diseases

mildew is a mushroom that looks like a strong flour dust. It can appear on and injure any green part of the plant. When infected, the cones turn reddish brown. You can treat this fungus with sulfur spray or copper fungicide. If this fails or the infection is severe, you will need to remove and destroy the diseased sections.

Wrong mildew is only noticeable in young shoots. It will stunt their growth, cause discoloration, and make them brittle. The cones stop growing and turn brown. The rest of the plant can rot if left untreated. Treat downy mildew like powdery mildew with sulfur spray or copper fungicide or by destroying diseased parts.

There are two tribes of Verticillium wither, one that isn't fatal and one that will wipe out your plants in a snap. The non-fatal pollution leads to wilting and discoloration of the leaves and the vine. If you find stress on your plants, the best way to do this is to remove the infected vines and remove them from your garden (check the rhizomes as well if possible). Use a sulfur-based fungicide to treat the rest of the plant and prevent future infections.

frequently asked Questions

Q: are hops easy to grow?

A: Hops are easy to care for, but require a lot of work to plant and harvest. They are pretty sturdy plants though!

Q: Do hops grow back every year?

A: Yes! In fact, they don't produce a full yield until after their first year. The vines have to be pruned each year, but the rhizomes hibernate well.

Q: are hops invasive?

A: They're not too malicious above ground, but hop rhizomes really do spread over time. You may not want to plant the rhizomes near plants with small root systems.

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