During the Middle Ages, the flavorful and hot root known as Galangal was a hot commodity. It was widely traded across Europe from its native Indonesia and China. Its popularity in the western world was declining and until recently you would have had a hard time finding anyone who even knew what the galangal plant is. Awareness of Galangal is growing thanks to its popularity in a variety of Asian cuisines, especially Thai cuisine.
While its popularity has increased, sourcing fresh galangal roots can be a challenge. Why not grow it yourself? Galangal belongs to the ginger family and comes from the root or rhizomes. Breeding Galangal is easy. It is a relatively low-maintenance system. Originally from Indonesia and Southwest China, it is an attractive plant with a tropical appearance for your garden.
Galangal has two forms: larger (Alpinia galanga) and smaller (A. officinarum). The first is larger as it can grow up to 6 feet tall and is the more common culinary root. The smaller version has a stronger flavor and is most commonly used for medicinal purposes. It is smaller in stature and reaches a height of about 3 feet.
Good Products for Growing Galangal Plants:
Brief instructions for care
The galangal plant not only has tropical foliage, but also edible rhizomes. Source: thomaswanhoff
| Common Name (s) | Galangal, Thai ginger |
| Scientific name | Alpinia galanga, Alpinia officinarum |
| Days to harvest | About a year until the harvest |
| light | Full sun, partial shade at over 90 degrees |
| Water: | Damp soil, avoid damp conditions |
| ground | Well-drained, moist soil |
| fertilizer | Regular use of a balanced mixture |
| Pests | Borers, grasshoppers, aphids, spider mites |
| Diseases | Root rot, rust |
Everything about Galangal
Let's compare the two species you have to choose between if you want to grow Galangal. Both are popular for growing, but one is a little more common.
Great Galangal
The flowers of Alpinia galanga can be quite showy. Source: Dick Culbert
Greater Galangal (Alpinia Galanga) is probably the best known as it is the version used in culinary applications. It is native to Indonesia and grows about 6 feet tall and has broad blade-like leaves. The small flowers are greenish-white with a dark red, veined tip. The flowers produce red berries. Galangal grows as a perennial and the rhizomes or roots are harvested and used after about a year of growth.
This version of galangal is common in many Asian cuisines and is the main ingredient in making Thai curry pastes, especially those used with seafood. Its use is similar to that of ginger, but it is much denser and stiffer. This density can be rubbed rather than chopped. The rhizomes have a tangy ginger taste, but are more peppery with a pine aroma. These rhizomes are mostly light yellow to white in color, but some varieties are blue in color, which gives it another name for blue ginger. When dry, they are light brown in color.
Little Galangal
Little galangal (Alpinia officinalis) is most commonly used in medicinal applications rather than cooking. It has a sharper and more medicinal taste. The rhizomes are also light brown to orange in color. It grows smaller, only reaching 3 feet in height, and has thin, long leaves. Flowers are also white with red stripes or tips. His home area is on the southeast coast of China.
Plant Galangal
Alpinia officinarum produces spikes of smaller, less showy flowers. Source: Petahopkins
Galangal is easy to grow in gardens in warmer climates such as Zone 9 or higher. It requires little attention throughout the season. The hardest part is waiting to establish before harvest. Climates with harsher winters have some difficulty and may require additional mulching and the use of greenhouse to prevent the roots from rotting.
Plant the galangal rhizome when the soil warms up in the spring. Alternatively, you can start indoors in a warm place to get a head start. Avoid damp or water-filled conditions. Galangal does not tolerate it, but needs it moist, so water it regularly in well-drained soil.
To grow Galangal you need warm conditions. It is recommended to start rhizomes indoors with a heating mat. This shortens the time the root sits and waits for the right conditions to arise. Simply place a rhizome in moist, well-drained soil and cover it with a few inches of soil. Several shoots will arise.
Transplant plants to the garden when there is a risk of frost. Choose a place with full sun. Each rhizome likely has multiple eyes or points where shoots arise. Place rhizomes 30 cm apart to make room for an ultimately larger bushy plant.
Galangal can be grown in a container, raised bed, or in the ground. Since this is a perennial plant that will take a year to establish before harvest, you should take this long waiting period into account in your planning phases. Galangal is sensitive to frost. So if you're trying to work in a cooler zone, consider a container that can be taken indoors or in a greenhouse.
Also note that it can get quite large, up to 6 feet for the greater variety. You don't want to over-shade nearby garden plants, but you may be able to use the shade to your advantage. Once set up, it's relatively easy to move, but if possible, choose a permanent location for planting.
Galangal plant care
The base of galangal plants is a mass of thick, woody stems. Source: Ahmad Fuad Morad
Galangal is an easy garden plant and the conditions are similar for both types of Galangal.
Sun and temperature
Provide a location in the garden where you can enjoy full sun for most of the day, especially in winter. Galangal is native to tropical zones and is best grown in zones 9 and above. Areas exposed to excessive heat should be prepared to water more frequently to provide afternoon shade during the most intense time of the year, especially when your plants are younger. During the winter in cooler zones, the Galangal must have a greenhouse or an indoor growing location. Galangal is very sensitive to frost and cold.
Water and moisture
Galangal needs plenty of water regularly at the beginning. Once the plants are more established in the fall and winter months, less moisture is needed. Water frequently and deeply to form these roots. A drip or water hose is very helpful. Once the plant is established, watering can be postponed to keep the soil moist only. Since it is a tropical plant, it likes moisture. So if you are growing in a naturally dry place, consider placing them near a well or pond.
ground
Also, to grow Galangal, you need well-drained soil. A garden mix with lots of organic matter allows drainage while retaining moisture. The soil should not dry out completely or be excessively wet or waterproof. Sprinkle with compost and mulch at regular intervals.
Fertilize
Galangal benefits from regular, balanced fertilization. Use liquid fertilizer monthly or when the leaves look stressed. Refilling the water also helps.
clipping
To keep your growing galangal plant looking healthy, you can cut off brown, dead leaves or bloomed flower stalks with clean loppers. New growth will continue. Note, however, that galangal does not die like ginger. Tanning can be an indication of a problem like underwater.
Multiplication
Galangal grows from its delicious rhizome. So don't eat everything you harvest. Let some of the rhizomes grow for a steady supply. You can also transplant rhizomes to new planting locations and start new plants.
Harvesting and storing
Freeze Galangal whole or chopped for later use. Source: skrubtudse
It is recommended that you let your Galangal stand to establish itself and grow for 10 months to a year before collecting the roots. The larger Galangal variety should be about 6 feet tall before harvest and the smaller Galangal variety should be 2½ – 3 feet tall.
harvest
Galangal harvests can be done in two different ways. You can either dig up your entire patch or harvest a few roots at a time.
With a large harvest, it is preferred to use a pitchfork or potato fork to pry out the rhizomes. Be careful not to get under the rhizomes to avoid damage. If you're growing in a container, it may be easier to toss the contents out. Save some of the rhizomes and plant again. Rinse off all of the dirt and cut off the small, thread-like roots and stem. The larger galangal root is scratchy and much denser and more robust than other roots such as ginger or turmeric.
If collecting everything is too much to process, or if you prefer fresh rather than dried, you may want to continually harvest a few roots at a time. To do this, dig around the base of the lump, expose the roots, and use a sharp, clean knife to cut off whatever you need. Rebury the root mass. Choose a different side of the patch each time to allow previously harvested areas to recover.
storage
Galangal is stored fresh in an airtight container for a few weeks, but it tends to dry out quickly. To save whole roots, wrap them in a damp cloth and put them in the refrigerator or freeze them. It can also be dehydrated and pulverized. Store the dried forms in an airtight container for months. Dried slices can be rehydrated before cooking. Dried has a more concentrated intensity, so adjust the recipe accordingly.
Troubleshooting
The rhizomes or roots of Galangal are commonly used culinary. Source: Farmanac
Since Galangal is a tropical plant, most of the problems are related to conditions that are too dry or too cold for their natural territory. Fortunately, when planting Galangal, there aren't many pests and disease problems.
Growing problems
Galangal leaves should appear shiny and green. Yellowing could indicate this does not have enough nutrients. At the beginning of planting, set up the soil with nutrients and feed it regularly. It is also possible that the Galangal plants are overfilled and compete for nutrients. Place rhizomes at least 30 cm apart. When they grow up, it may be time to harvest and thin out the plants.
Pests
Galangal can be plagued by several pests that eat the underground roots, such as: drill. If you notice pits on the rhizomes when harvesting, it may be best to dig them all up and find a new spot with clean soil. Do not replant pitted rhizomes. A periodic rotation of the Galangal site will help in the long term.
Locusts, Aphids, and possibly Spider mites might be attracted to your galangal. Once your plants are well established, the best solution is to cut off infected leaves. If the infestation is moderate, neem oil treats aphids and spider mites, while BT can aid the locusts. If the infestation is large, the use of pyrethrin or spinosad may be necessary.
Making sure the plants are well watered and fertilized will make them less susceptible to these pests. Unhealthy plants attract more pests.
Diseases
rust This could be a problem for your galangal, especially if there is too much moisture and moisture. If you live in a very humid area, avoid watering the top growth to minimize rusting conditions and spread to uninfected areas. Prune any infected parts. Both sulfur-based and copper-based fungicides can be effective in treating infections on a large scale.
Root rot of rhizomes can appear if the soils are too cold and soaked. Be sure to choose the right location to ensure adequate sun and drainage.
frequently asked Questions
Q: Are Galangal and Ginger the same?
A: No, Galangal and ginger belong to the same family of plants, Zingiberaceae, so they have similar looking and growing properties. But the tastes and culinary uses are different.
Q: How does Galangal taste?
A: Galangal is a peppery, gingery flavor. Lesser Galangal is more stinging and medicinal than Greater Galangal.
Q: Can you eat galangal leaves?
A: Yes! Galangal leaves are most commonly used to add flavor to a broth or soup.
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