Emerald Delight Squash
Emerald Delight Summer Squash Seeds
Max’s Gold Squash
Max’s Gold Summer Squash Seeds
Gelber Englischer Squash
Summer (Patty Pan) Squash Seeds
Honeynut Winter Squash
Honeynut Winter Squash Seeds
Jack Be Little Pumpkin
Jack Be Little Pumpkin Seeds
A- Frame Trellis
Folding A-Frame Trellis Support For Plants
Summer and winter squashes are garden favorites with prolific yields of unique and versatile fruits. They’re sometimes space hogs with their vigorous, sprawling vines. On the ground, they can also succumb to pests and diseases.
Growing squash vertically is a space-saving technique. It also allows straighter, more shapely fruits to develop. Pest scouting becomes more manageable, and disease risk decreases. With high vertical interest and added dimension, it’s fun and rewarding to see the beautiful fruits develop as they dangle from the vine.
Growing the crops vertically is an economical and easy way to save space and stave off diseases. You can convert an existing squash crop or start anew. Using simple household materials takes growing to the next level.
Benefits of Going Vertical
Benefits include disease prevention, space-saving, and quality fruits.
In addition to the rewards of watching fruits develop, the benefits of growing squash vertically are numerous.
Space-saving: Growing upward allows squash to grow in various garden situations, from small sites like balconies, courtyards, and patios to raised beds and containers.
Disease prevention: Lifting them improves air circulation around plants. Increased space and elevation mean better airflow. As leaves and fruits are off the ground, conditions are less crowded and damp, helping keep fungal problems like powdery mildew at bay.
Scouting: With vertical specimens, spotting pests and diseases is easier. Inspect regularly for mildewed leaves and snip them off. Insects like the squash vine borer and squash bug may be easier to detect on open-air growers, as there are fewer pest hiding places. Look for brown egg clusters on the undersides of leaves (squash bug) or singular eggs on stems (squash vine borer).
Access to sunlight: Taking leaves and stems from the ground level increases all-over light exposure. Not only is sunlight used in photosynthesis, but it’s also necessary for fruits to develop healthy skins. For winter squashes, the added sunlight ensures good, thick skins for a long shelf life.
Drier Conditions: This complements improved air circulation. With less irrigation splashing on leaves and a faster dry time, fungal conditions are less optimal.
Attractive Fruits: Hanging fruits come into their own without flat or yellow spots from growing on the ground. Verticality lends straighter, better-shaped squashes, especially for long varieties like ‘Tromboncino.’
Plant Selection
Bush and semi-bush types best fit low structures and small spaces.
Both summer and winter cucurbits thrive with upright growing techniques. Lifting stems, leaves, and fruits off the ground offers the same universal benefits. Winter squash tends to be bigger than summer squash, but both are suited to vertical arrangements.
Summer squashes, like zucchini and pattypan, tend to produce more quickly on denser, more compact plants. Their vertical structures can be smaller in stature.
Winter squashes, like butternuts and pumpkins, take longer to develop their hefty fruits with thick skins. Vines are often longer and more sprawling. Unless a dwarf selection, they need a large support structure like a tripod, trellis, or arch.
For growing squash vertically, bush and semi-bush types best fit low structures and small spaces. A bushing variety is compact and doesn’t vine independently; it won’t produce side vines or tendrils. A semi-bush type has vines that sprawl slightly but mainly stay close to the central plant. They usually yield more fruits than bush varieties, but both are good producers.
Both bushing and semi-bushing plants take less time to develop mature fruits than many vining squashes. These are good options if your summer growing season is short or you want to install a late planting. A benefit of a late-season round is that it avoids the most active pest cycle of June to mid-July.
Single Stake Method
Use bush-type varieties for the singular stake method.
This simple technique raises leaves and vines with a singular post as the anchoring upright support. Use bush-type varieties for the singular stake method. Going vertical with a single pole is a low-cost way to boost plant vigor and production.
Materials
Use jute twine to tie stems throughout the season.
Use supplies you have on hand to craft a central support. This could be electrical conduit, thick bamboo, or other upright material. The stake should be about three feet tall.
You may need a mallet or hammer to tamp the stake into the ground. The last material is jute twine, which you can use to tie stems throughout the season.
Install and Plant
Loosen the roots of the transplant and plant it next to the stake.
Hammer the stake into the soil so it feels sturdy and immovable. Loosen the roots of the transplant and plant it next to the stake.
Plant the seedling up to the seed leaf, just above the crown. Mulch around the plants, keeping the mulch off of stems.
Tie Off Stems
Take care not to disrupt blossoms or developing fruits.
The stem is ready for tying when squash plants show six to eight inches of vertical growth. It may not seem to need support at this stage, but getting the stem in place is helpful before the vertical growth point quickly takes off. In addition to central growth, the cucurbits will already have large leaves, flowers, and early fruits.
Use a piece of twine to tie the stem to the stake loosely. Take care not to disrupt blossoms or developing fruits. Continue to tie off vines as they grow, about every four inches.
Cut Off Lower Leaves
As the stalk grows, remove lower leaves, cutting close to the stem.
Squash are fast-growers, and vertical growth hits its stride after a few weeks. As the stalk grows, remove lower leaves, cutting close to the stem. This directs energy upward to fruits and upper leaves.
The thick primary stem will look like a bare, leafless trunk but makes for a healthy squash. Removing lower leaves keeps them off the ground and less susceptible to disease. It thins the plants for added space and air circulation.
Convert Existing Plants
The plants are flexible with pliable stems that move easily without damage.
Train existing plants to grow vertically by cutting off any leaves with signs of disease. Insert the anchor stake next to the primary stem. The plants are flexible with pliable stems that move easily without damage.
Tie the upper portion of the plant to the post first to prevent it from flopping over. Then, tie the remainder of the stalk in segments for added support. The disturbed growth may look stressed initially but will quickly redirect toward the sun for upright growth.
Other Vertical Options
A deck railing or fence makes elevated support systems.
Vertical options abound for growing cucurbits. A deck railing or fence makes elevated support systems. Create sturdy trellises and tripods for growing on the side of the wall, upward in the garden, in raised beds, or in large pots. Direct growth by tying stems at regular intervals for added support.
Trellising
Foliage will die back as the fruits mature.
To trellis cucurbits, ensure enough height and width for the plants to run. Bush and semi-bush types don’t require tall spaces to crawl, and trellises can be four to five feet tall and wide. Tie the stems of these types as they grow, just as in the single-stake method.
Use sturdy materials to support the weight of stems and fruits. Observe the sun’s movement as you decide on trellis placement, both for the cucurbits and surrounding plants that may receive shade from the upright growers.
A-Frames
These folding trellis support structures consist of two panels that meet at the top to form an open triangle. You can make your own with gridded wire or cattle fencing panels, wooden latticing, or other streamlined materials with horizontal and vertical supports.
Make the structure four feet tall (or more) for small vining varieties, and let them run up and down the frame. Or, choose a bush or semi-bush variety and plant both sides.
Panels
Upright frames allow for vertical growth in row systems, garden beds, walls, and fences. They provide an anchor to lift the plants off the ground. Configure panels to the length or height based on the size of your squash selections. Three to four feet wide and four to seven feet tall are general sizes that vary according to plant size.
Cattle fencing and wire-gauge panels are ready-made options to anchor to a wall or in-ground frame. If growing squash vertically on a wall or fence, ensure ample airflow around plants.
Arches
A tall arch or tunnel is a beautiful way to grow squash. Frame a walkway or bridge planters and beds. Planted arches shade underplantings, which is helpful for many plants during the midday sun or those that prefer partial shade.
This method employs pliable materials like wire panels and fencing to form an arch. Fruits hang as they develop for better form and added interest.
Obelisks and Tripods
Tripods rely on strong, tall posts tied, secured, or forged at the pinnacle.
Like arches, obelisks bring aesthetic architectural elements to the function of growing squash vertically. Tripods rely on strong, tall posts tied, secured, or forged at the pinnacle. Squash grows up the three arms of the structure and on lateral supports between the poles.
The result is exciting forms with the benefits of elevated growth. Tie plants as they grow to direct growth.
Companion Planting
Nasturtiums and marigolds are annuals with pest-deterring qualities.
With all the extra space you’ll gain in growing vertical, consider growing beneficial squash partners near the base. Companion plants serve to benefit one or both of the plants. They require the same growing conditions and sometimes offer beneficial afternoon shade, depending on height.
A great reason to grow companion herbs, vegetables, and perennials is to deter pests naturally. This means pairing plants with essential oils to help prevent the squash bug.
Nasturtiums and marigolds are annuals with pest-deterring qualities. Perennials like beebalm and catmint make aromatic additions that pests find distasteful. These companions also bring plenty of blooms, drawing pollinators and increasing biodiversity. Squash blossoms will have plenty of pollination from beneficial insects (no need for hand-pollinating).
Plant the bloomers all around the cucurbits. They won’t compete with the vigorous vines for resources.
Varieties
If space is no issue or you have a large arch or trellis, go big with beautiful vining cucurbits.
While any squash selection can grow on the ground or vertically, some are particularly well-suited given their size and form. Smaller vines and compact plants are ideal for small-space crops. If space is no issue or you have a large arch or trellis, go big with beautiful vining cucurbits.
Cucurbita pepo ‘Emerald Delight’
Stems grow two feet tall by three to four feet wide in a bush form.
This compact hybrid is high-yielding and produces loads of small zucchini. Stems grow two feet tall by three to four feet wide in a bush form.
The tender zucchini grows six to eight inches long (or longer if left on the vine). Its fruits have dark, shiny skin and a creamy interior. The plant’s open habit makes the zucchini easy to spot and harvest.
Fruits mature in only 50-55 days, ideal for areas with short growing seasons or late summer plantings. ‘Emerald Delight’ is disease-resistant against powdery mildew and mosaic viruses.
Cucurbita pepo ‘Max’s Gold’
Best harvested at six to eight inches long.
‘Max’s Gold’ is a prolific summer squash with golden yellow fruits. Best harvested at six to eight inches long, the squash has a small seed cavity for fleshier interiors (more of the good-eating parts).
The plants are compact bush-types, two feet tall by three to four feet wide. Grow them vertically on a single stake for excellent yields.
Cucurbita pepo ‘Gelber Englischer’
For the best flavor, harvest young fruits at two to four-inch saucers.
This sunny pattypan has light yellow stripes and scalloped, ruffled edges. For the best flavor, harvest young fruits at two to four-inch saucers. As fruits mature, they turn deep orange and grow large, making them suitable for decoration.
This heirloom out of Germany matures in only 60 days. The bush-type summer grower won’t overrun tight spaces and grows well in containers.
C. moschata ‘Tromboncino’
Trellis or arch the vigorous vines to watch the long, narrow fruits develop as they hang.
‘Tromboncino,’ also called ‘Zucchino Rampicante,’ is an Italian heirloom winter squash. While the long fruits mature in the cool season, they’re equally tasty when harvested young, green, and tender in the summer. They provide a flavorful stand-in for summer squash and develop their butternut characteristics in the fall.
Trellis or arch the vigorous vines to watch the long, narrow fruits develop as they hang. The unique squash is a conversation piece and reaches up to three feet long.
C. moschata is more resistant to squash vine borer infestations than other species. Its thick, smooth stems make them less accessible during egg-laying and larval cycles.
Cucurbita moschata ‘Honeynut’
These butternuts store for up to six months.
‘Honeynut’ winter squash is another moschata selection with good squash vine borer and powdery mildew resistance. This hybrid is out of Cornell’s breeding program and crosses butternut and buttercup varieties for a very sweet and smooth texture.
Fruits are four to five inches long. They start mottled green and ripen to mellow orange-red. These butternuts store for up to six months. Two to three-foot vines make the dense grower perfect for vertical situations, even in small spaces.
Cucurbita pepo ‘Jack Be Little’
Pumpkin fruits grow only three to four inches in diameter and two inches high.
This adorable miniature pumpkin is ideal for trellising in containers as a specimen plant. You can also grow it on small A-frames or obelisks.
Pumpkin fruits grow only three to four inches in diameter and two inches high. Six to ten fruits per plant light up the vine in bright orange. Use them for eating and stuffing or for petite decorations. They store for up to one year.
Vines grow compactly at three to five feet long. To grow them in containers, choose a five-gallon or larger pot at least 18 inches deep.
Frequently Asked Questions
Summer squashes like yellow, zucchini, and pattypan varieties don’t need extra support. However, larger selections like weighty butternut, pumpkin, or acorn may benefit from flexible support as they develop on the vine. Netting to hold each fruit is available for purchase. Creative gardeners use twine to create a simple hammock or even pantyhose, which leaves room for growth.
Observe sunlight conditions as your trellis fills to determine if the light is dappled, partial, full shade, etc. Lettuce, collard greens, garlic, and carrots benefit from partial shade while temperatures remain warm. Beans, tomatoes, and cucumbers tolerate afternoon sun protection. Many herbs do well in dappled conditions. If the shade is deep, look for shade annuals and perennials to draw pollinators. Bonus for edible leaves and foliage.
Cucurbits grow in pots as long as they’re large enough to sustain mature roots and upper growth. Install a trellis or support at planting time. For easy care, use bush or semi-bush types. These require a minimum of five gallons of growing space, 18 inches deep. Larger varieties need bigger containers.
