Sometimes in gardening, we must sacrifice aesthetics for flavor, but ‘Green Zebra’ tomatoes elegantly achieve both. This extra vigorous breeder’s work of art combines the best flavor and color of an heirloom tomato with the vigor and resilience of a hybrid. While we often think of green tomatoes as under-ripe, this cultivar yields unique two to three-inch fruits that ripen with golden-chartreuse skins and forest green stripes.
‘Green Zebra’ was developed by an organic plant breeder who craved well-balanced, sweet, low-acidity fruits with superior crack resistance and an extraordinary zebra-striped aesthetic. This variety also boasts superior heat and drought tolerance.
Let’s dig into everything you need to know about planting, growing, and caring for ‘Green Zebra’ tomatoes.
Overview
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History and Cultivation
Born from innovative cross-breeding, these tomatoes offer unmatched flavor diversity.
The idea for a ripe green tomato germinated in Tom Wagner’s mind in the 1950s. While green tomatoes are typically labeled unripe and left for frying or composting, he was determined to develop a cultivar that tasted delicious while green. An organic plant breeder from Everett, Washington, Wagner desired to cross several heirloom parents together for low-acidity, sweet tomatoes that ripened with yellowish-chartreuse skins.
A product of traditional plant breeding, ‘Green Zebra’ is not a GMO (genetically modified organism). Instead, it is the result of cross-pollinating several different parent tomatoes and saving the seeds for several generations until the desired fruit is achieved.
The process is similar to dog breeding, where a breeder chooses the best traits of two parents and crosses them together. Just like huskies are bred for sledding, and shepherds are bred for herding, ‘Green Zebra’ tomatoes are bred for amazingly delicious striped fruits.
As you can imagine, this process took some time and taste-testing. The seeds were finally released in 1983 and are slowly becoming more popular amongst adventurous gardeners and chefs seeking more diversity in their tomato collections.
What Are ‘Green Zebra’ Tomatoes?
A resilient, flavorful tomato with striking zebra-striped skins, ideal for diverse climates.
‘Green Zebra’ is an organic hybrid cultivar developed by Tom Wagner in 1983. The ultra-vigorous indeterminate plants produce vines six feet or taller and copious amounts of two-to-three-inch diameter fruits.
The flavorful tomatoes have zebra-striped skins that ripen to golden yellow, forest green, and a blush of amber. This crack-resistant variety is particularly suited to areas with summer rains. It is remarkably drought-tolerant and heat-tolerant, making it versatile in the south as well.
What Do They Taste Like?
Known for its superb balance of sweetness and tang, it’s perfect for diverse culinary uses.
The captivating striped appearance does not detract from the amazing flavor of this tomato. The well-balanced fruits are coveted for their perfect blend of sweetness, low acidity, and classic tomatoey flavor. They have the dense texture of an heirloom yet become slightly softer and juicier when fully ripe.
The fruits are highly desirable for fresh eating in tangy or sweet salads. They are larger than cherry tomatoes but smaller than slicers. Cut them in half and sprinkle them with salt, olive oil, and balsamic for a colorful side dish. They also taste excellent in salsas, roasts, or paired with cheese boards.
Propagation
Like all tomatoes, this variety demands abundant warmth and sunshine to thrive. Seeds are the only way to start new plants unless you happen upon these rare seedlings at a local nursery.
Seed
Starting tomato seeds indoors ensures strong early growth and summer yields.
A head start is recommended for tomato plants because it ensures early summer yields and extra strong root growth. Start these tomato seeds indoors four to six weeks before your last frost date. The plants should not be transplanted until one to two weeks after the average last frost.
Seeds need plenty of warmth to germinate. The ideal soil temperature is 70-90°F (21-32°C). For the best results, use Epic 4-Cell trays or any tray of your choice and place them on top of a germination heat mat. Fill the trays with a well-drained seed starter mix, then tap them on a table to let the mix settle in place. Add a bit more soil to flatten the top of the trays.
Use your finger to create small indentations in the center of each cell. ‘Green Zebra’ seeds should be planted at a depth of approximately ¼ inch. Sow one to two seeds per cell and thin to the strongest seedling once they are two inches tall. Use a bottom tray to water from the bottom, or gently saturate from the surface with a low-pressure hose or watering can. Avoid displacing the seeds with heavy blasts of water.
Keep the soil consistently moist but never soggy. Place in a bright, sunny location like a south-facing windowsill or a greenhouse. In the right conditions, the seeds take approximately 5-10 days to germinate. If the seedlings appear spindly or “leggy,” they probably don’t have enough light. Add a grow light or move closer to the window.
Direct sowing is only recommended in the warmest climates where nighttime temperatures are reliably above 45°F (7°C) and the soil is at least 70°F (21°C). Use a soil thermometer probe to check your beds before sowing.
Planting
‘Green Zebra’ takes approximately 75 days from transplanting to begin fruiting. Once the first flowers appear, rest assured that you will have tomatoes all summer long! These indeterminate vines fruit continuously until the first fall frost. As long as they have somewhat consistent water and full sunshine, the plants are eager to yield in abundance.
How to Transplant
Prepare and transplant seedlings carefully to ensure strong, resilient growth.
Transplanting this unique variety is the exact same process as any other tomato. First, you’ll want to harden off your seedlings. Hardening off is the process of gradually acclimating indoor-grown seedlings to harsher outdoor conditions. About a week before transplanting, move the seedling trays to a protected patio where they can adjust to outdoor temperatures.
Avoid exposing them to drastic weather shifts. If your weather is unpredictable, I highly recommend using row fabric or a cloche to protect the baby tomatoes as they harden off. The protection can also be used in the first week after transplanting. As an added bonus, the light cover will keep early-season pests away by physically blocking them from the plant.
When it’s time to transplant, prepare your beds with loamy, well-drained soil that is rich in compost. Use a trowel or shovel to dig a hole about one and a half times as wide and deep as the seedlings. Gently loosen the roots of the seed tray and grasp the plant from the base to shimmy it out. If you are using Epic Cell Trays, you can simply press your finger through the convenient bottom finger holes.
You can plant ‘Green Zebra’ tomatoes with several inches of their stems buried underground. The plants will form adventitious roots all along the stem, creating a stronger root system for drought resilience throughout the summer. Be sure to remove any lower leaves before burying the stem. Leave at least two to three sets of robust, healthy leaves above ground to help the plant establish.
After Transplanting
With your plants freshly transplanted, backfill thoroughly with soil and water. The water should instantly seep into the ground. If it puddles around the plant surface, your soil probably lacks drainage. Loosen it up, add more compost, and replant. Ensure the water reaches at least six inches deep to promote deeper root development.
It’s best to install your irrigation lines and trellis immediately before or after planting. This ensures that the vines are easy to train and prune from the very beginning. If you wait too long to trellis, the vines may become woody, breakable, and unruly.
Trellising
Ensure sturdy support for tall vines to prevent tangling and maximize growth.
‘Green Zebra’ is an indeterminate variety with vigorous vines that grow six feet or longer. These plants need support; otherwise, they will topple over and become a tangled mess. Any tomato trellis will work, but I am partial to the folding A-frame trellis support.
This trellis is super easy to install and doesn’t require any tools or building skills. The vines easily climb the slanted structure, and the heavy-duty steel squares provide plenty of support for the fruit clusters.
Spacing
Give these vigorous plants ample space to flourish and produce abundantly.
Plant these striped marvels 24-36 inches apart in raised beds or ground-level soil mounds. Closer spacing is acceptable if you plan to prune and train the vines regularly. However, if you live in a humid area or regularly have issues with tomato diseases, we recommend wider spacing to encourage airflow between plants.
Remember to thin your seedlings from the beginning. Overcrowded tomatoes can quickly become stunted and stressed. Just two or three widely spaced plants can far out-yield five or six overcrowded ones. It’s much better to have a handful of well-tended plants that produce an abundance of tomatoes all summer long. These vines need plenty of space to ramble and thrive!
How to Grow
These heat-and-drought-tolerant plants can easily grow in most zones. The secret to the sweetest, most flavorful tomatoes is to ensure strong, healthy plants through consistent moisture, moderate fertilizing, and regular pruning.
Light
Ensure your tomatoes receive full sun for vigorous growth and yield.
Full sunlight is crucial for these South American natives. All tomatoes originate from a wild nightshade ancestor that lived for centuries, basking in the hot sunshine of the Andes Mountains. Be sure to plant in an area that receives a minimum of six to eight hours of direct sunlight every day. South-facing garden beds are key, but hotter climate gardeners can get away with east-facing beds that receive some afternoon shade.
Avoid planting tomatoes in areas that get shaded or shadowed by structures, shrubs, trees, or tall crops like corn. Tomatoes are vigorous vines, but they absolutely demand full sunshine to fuel their growth. Pale green or yellow foliage is a common symptom of insufficient light. This occurs because chlorophyll (the green pigment in leaves) requires sunlight to perform maximum photosynthesis. Without enough light, the plant cannot produce enough sugars to grow healthy leaves, flowers, and fruits.
Spindly or leggy growth is another sign of low light. Seedlings are particularly prone to reaching toward the light. You may notice longer spaces between leaves on the vines. This results in weak plants and fewer tomatoes. If you notice any symptoms of insufficient sunlight, transplant your tomatoes or move the containers ASAP.
‘Green Zebra’ is a specialty crop that deserves prime real estate in the garden. It will reward you with nearly continuous fruits all summer.
Water
Consistent, deep watering is key for healthy, resilient tomato plants.
Consistent moisture and deep watering are the top secrets to amazing tomatoes. These plants don’t like having overly wet or overly dry soil. While some people blame blossom end rot on calcium deficiency, it is actually caused by inconsistent moisture most of the time. Huge fluctuations between dry soil and soggy soil lead to the unavailability of calcium in the ground. Tomatoes cannot properly uptake the necessary nutrients when the soil moisture is constantly fluctuating.
Deep watering is important because it ensures a thorough soaking in the lower parts of the soil profile. Tomato roots can reach down 24 inches or more into the ground. Deeper roots mean more drought resilience and a greater ability to scavenge for extra nutrients that fuel healthy fruit development. If you water shallowly, tomato roots may fail to reach down in the soil. They become more susceptible to water stress on hot days.
Deep vs. Shallow Watering
Opt for deep watering to promote healthier, crack-resistant tomatoes.
The key difference between deep watering and shallow watering is timing. Deep watering requires longer periods of irrigation less frequently. For example, you may run your soaker hoses or drip lines for one to two hours once or twice per week. This would deeply soak the soil and ensure it never dries out.
In contrast, shallow watering involves a quick spray of the hose every day. These overly frequent, short irrigation sessions are not ideal for tomato health and can also lead to fruit cracking.
Best Types of Irrigation
Achieve optimal moisture balance with drip irrigation and strategic mulching.
Find a happy medium by installing drip lines or soaker hoses in your beds and covering them with a one-to-two-inch layer of straw mulch. This will help conserve moisture and funnel water straight into the root zone. Avoid overhead irrigation with sprinklers, as this can wet the foliage and lead to problems with disease. Moreover, overhead watering typically fails to fully soak the root zone because much of the water evaporates in sunlight before it reaches the soil.
If you are a gardener who accidentally under or over-waters, an olla is the best way to find balance for your ‘Green Zebra’ tomatoes. This ancient clay pot irrigation method involves burying a porous terracotta pot several inches deep in your garden bed near the base of your plants. You fill the pot with water and allow the moisture to naturally seep out straight to the roots when the plants need it. The olla will stop releasing moisture once the soil is saturated.
Soil
Prepare rich, well-drained soil with ample compost for thriving tomatoes.
Well-drained loamy soil is ideal for all tomatoes. You don’t want to skimp on amendments in your tomato beds! A generous heaping of compost can improve drainage, water retention, and microbial activity. More beneficial microbes mean more nutrient availability and plant immunity for your crop. It’s important to source quality compost or make your own, ensuring that it reaches sufficient temperatures to kill off weed seeds and pathogens.
If your soil is exceptionally compacted, you may need to incorporate lots of peat moss or sand to help loosen the texture. Alternatively, install a ready-to-assemble raised bed that allows you to build soil on top of the native ground. This is a great option for anyone who has back problems or doesn’t want to do a ton of digging.
Climate and Temperature
Protect ‘Green Zebra’ tomatoes from extreme temperatures for optimal growth.
‘Green Zebra’ is a tender tomato that prefers warm temperatures. This variety also tolerates more heat than some others. The ideal weather for seedlings is at least 60°F (16°C). If the weather is consistently above 90°F (32°C), the plants may stop producing flowers, but they will resume once nights are cooler. Anything colder than 45°F (7°C) poses a risk for these plants, and they absolutely cannot withstand frosty weather.
If you live in a northern climate with unpredictable spring weather, you’ll likely need protection for young tomatoes. After transplanting, cover them with a low tunnel of row fabric or clear greenhouse plastic. You can also add one to two inches of straw or leaf mulch. Both steps will add insulation to the plant and help retain heat through cold nights, resulting in faster growth and better yields.
In hot southern climates, tomatoes can be kept cool with shade cloth and mulch. Shade cloth is only necessary in the most sweltering weather, but mulch is beneficial year-round. The mulch is dual-functional because it moderates soil temperature, preventing huge swings from cold to hot. The sun blazing down on bare soil is not a good thing for plant roots. Mulch protects them from the heat and drying effects of UV rays.
Fertilizing
Achieve robust, flavorful tomatoes with a balanced, slow-release fertilizer.
Slow-release all-purpose fertilizer is ideal for ‘Green Zebra’ tomatoes. If you want sweet, flavorful, voluptuous fruits, be sure to amend the soil properly. Balanced fertilizer is essential because too much nitrogen can cause excessive leaf growth. A tomato that is over-fertilized with nitrogen may have super dark green leaves, tons of foliage, and weak stems. As nitrogen fuels all this vegetative growth, flower and fruit production will go by the wayside.
You can avoid over-fertilization with nitrogen by choosing a fertilizer with numbers that are fairly close together. For example, NPK ratios of 4-4-4 or 3-4-6 mean that the percentages of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are balanced.
Espoma Tomato-Tone is the top-tier choice because it offers moderate, slow-release nitrogen and higher amounts of phosphorus and potassium. Phosphorus is crucial for stimulating flower and fruit production. Potassium is essential for regulating photosynthesis and ensuring proper fruit ripening. All of the ingredients are organic and mineral-based, so they will feed beneficial soil microorganisms as they simultaneously feed your plants.
Should I Fertilize Tomatoes With Calcium or Not?
Soil tests are key before adding extra calcium to tomatoes.
Many sources recommend adding extra calcium to tomatoes, such as eggshells, oyster shells, or bone meal fertilizers. While calcium deficiency is often blamed for blossom end rot, inconsistent moisture or improper soil pH are more commonly the issue. Research shows that most soils already have enough calcium, and deficiency is fairly rare. Adding extra calcium won’t necessarily hurt your plants (as long as you don’t dump it on!), but it may not be necessary unless your soil test reveals a deficiency.
The real issue is calcium availability to the tomato. A soil pH between 6.2 and 6.8 ensures that the plant can uptake available calcium. Proper watering keeps the soil regularly moist but never overly soggy or dry. Avoid huge fluctuations in soil moisture and test your soil once per year.
Maintenance
Maximize tomato yields by regularly removing plant suckers for efficiency.
Tomatoes can practically grow themselves, but there is a key maintenance step that will make a huge difference in overall yields: Sucker removal! Suckers are the little side shoots that grow from tomato “elbow ditches.” These are the spots where leaves intersect with a main stem. You will also notice new shoots emerging at approximately a 45° angle from the main stem. These shoots are called suckers because they literally “suck” energy away from fruit production.
Sucker removal is like a message to your plant that says, Hey, please focus your energy on fruiting. You don’t need to grow any more vines or leaves. You can start removing suckers at any stage of growth, and you will find it much easier to control the trellising of the plant. Better yet, sucker removal improves overall airflow and gives your tomato patch a tidier appearance.
If left in place, every sucker can grow into an entirely new vine. Instead, high-efficiency gardeners aim to choose just one or two main vines where the plant can focus its fruit production. Removing any lateral vines helps keep the patch under control. Use sharp, sanitized shears or scissors to cut suckers before they grow too large, or you can snap them off if they are still small.
variety yields cylindrical creamy-to-pale-yellow fruits with buttery, rich flavor. You can snack on them straight off the vine or turn them into unique yellow pasta sauces and salsas. This plant is more compact than ‘Green Zebra’ and ideal for containers.
Companion Plants
Interplanting is always recommended for tomatoes. You don’t want to grow these plants in a monoculture, as this can attract more pest and disease issues. Diversity improves overall plant resilience and yields while simultaneously enhancing pollination, pest resistance, and garden aesthetics. These companions are perfect for ‘Green Zebra:’
Marigolds
Plant marigolds for natural pest control and vibrant garden beauty.
One of the most well-researched companion plants, marigolds are proven to repel pests above ground and suppress nematodes belowground. The vibrantly-colored flowers look gorgeous along the margins or interspersed in tomato beds. Their low-growing stature ensures they won’t compete with your tomatoes.
They can also attract pollinators to aid in pollination on days with less wind. While their nematode-deterring effects aren’t accessible until the season after they’re planted, they’re great for deterring other pests and livening up your garden.
Sweet Alyssum
Enhance tomato beds with beneficial insect-attracting sweet alyssum flowers.
Sweet alyssum is also known as white alyssum and is the most versatile companion plant. As an organic farmer, I hardly ever planted a crop without alyssum nearby. This low-growing, sweet-smelling white flower is a magnet for beneficial insects. Hoverflies, parasitic wasps, ladybugs, and lacewings are just a few of the pest-devouring predators that frequent alyssum flowers. Many of these eat aphids.
You can intersperse the plants throughout tomato beds, leaving at least 8-10 inches of space between the crops. Allow alyssum to form a nice weed-suppressing ground cover at the base of your tomatoes without the risk of competition between the two species.
Phacelia
Grow phacelia to attract pollinators and beneficial insects throughout your garden.
An underrated pollinator plant, phacelia is a gorgeous curly purple flower with fronds that resemble ferns. These blooms are extremely popular with pollinators and beneficial insects. If you grow phacelia in border beds throughout your garden, you should notice a huge increase in bees, butterflies, and predatory bugs. Avoid planting phacelia directly next to tomatoes, as the plants can grow quite large.
Basil
Pair tomatoes with basil for enhanced flavor and pest control.
‘Green Zebra’ tomatoes and basil taste amazing in the kitchen, and they work together like a charm in the garden. The fragrant leaves of basil naturally deter pests. The herbs also appreciate the dappled shade of tomatoes during peak summer, which can prevent the basil from bolting too soon. Plant basil along the rows of tomatoes, leaving 8-10 inches of space between plants. If you allow your basil to go to seed, leave the flowers to magnetize pollinators. ‘Tulsi Holy Basil’ is particularly fragrant and attractive.
Pests and Diseases
While ‘Green Zebra’ tomatoes are resilient, they are not invincible. Like all tomatoes, they can still be harmed by annoying bugs and pathogens.
Pests
Hornworms devour tomato plants, causing significant crop damage.
Aphids, tomato hornworms, flea beetles, and rodents are the major pests of tomatoes. Strong, healthy plants with sufficient moisture are naturally more resistant to infestations. Here are a few tips for dealing with attacks:
- Aphids can be removed with a strong blast of water or with neem oil or horticultural soap. Plant insectary flowers nearby to attract predators to avoid using sprays.
- Tomato hornworms can be hand-plucked and drowned in soapy water. Closing greenhouses or row fabric at night can deter the moths from laying eggs. If you’d like to support them as pollinators, relocate them to another nightshade plant.
- Flea beetles are best deterred with row fabric in the early season. Their shot-hole-like damage mostly affects leaves and not fruits.
- Rodents and birds may pluck at tomato fruits. Use netting to keep them off your plants.
Diseases
Prevent blossom end rot with consistent, deep watering for healthy tomatoes.
Blossom end rot is the most common tomato issue, but it isn’t actually a disease. If you notice the “butts” of tomato roots turning black and rotting, it is likely due to infrequent irrigation that “locks up” calcium in the soil.
Supplementing calcium may seem like an easy fix, but without the proper soil pH and moisture, the calcium won’t be available to your plants. Practice deeper, less frequent watering that keeps the soil regularly moist like a wrung-out sponge. Avoid huge fluctuations from dry to wet.
Early blight and late blight are detrimental tomato diseases that cause big yellow and brown blotches and a scorched appearance to leaves. The pathogen usually appears on the lower leaves first. Removing infected foliage is essential. You can apply preventative organic fungicides and grow resistant varieties. ‘Green Zebra’ is not particularly blight-resistant, but proper airflow, pruning, and reducing leaf wetness can help prevent issues.
Tobacco mosaic virus is less common but still notable. The key symptoms are distorted, twirling leaves that look mottled yellow and green. There is no known cure for this plant virus, so you’ll want to remove infected specimens ASAP. Avoid using tobacco products near your garden, and wash your hands after smoking or handling tobacco.
Tomatoes are also subject to various wilts. This generally begins with a few leaves and can spread to the entire plant. You should remove infected plants as soon as possible to prevent the spread of the disease to other plants. Do not plant susceptible plants in that soil. Proper crop rotation and pruning can often prevent wilts.
Plant Uses
Enjoy fresh ‘Green Zebra’ tomatoes in salads or sauces.
‘Green Zebra’ tomatoes are primarily grown for fresh-eating. Their sweet, balanced, low-acid flavor is ideal for salads, caprese, salsas, and side dishes. The green striped fruits can also be roasted or cooked into sauce.
Frequently Asked Questions
No, ‘Green Zebra’ is an indeterminate vining variety. The plants produce prolific 6+ foot vines that require trellising or support. You can keep them compact by regularly pruning and training up a pole.
These plants average 6-8 feet in height but can grow taller or shorter depending on the conditions and maintenance. Keep the plants small by pruning regularly and trellising on a pole, cattle panel, or A-frame.
Final Thoughts
Add a burst of exotic color to your garden and recipes with this artistic tomato variety. Most people have not tried green tomatoes that are actually ripe. This plant will produce in abundance as long as it has full sunshine, consistent moisture, balanced potassium-rich fertilizer, and properly harvested fruits. Remember that it’s best to let tomatoes ripen on the vine, and this variety will darken green or blush amber color when it is ready to pick.
