21 Crops to Plant in August for Fall Harvests

Summer isn’t over yet! You can plant a huge diversity of crops in August to enjoy at late summer BBQs, Thanksgiving dinner, and even holiday meals. While the weather is warm and vibrant, it’s the perfect time to start your fall and winter crops off with a bang.

From tasty late-summer greens to fall carrots to autumn brassicas to perennial herbs, you need to get these plants in the ground now so they are ready in a few months when the weather cools.

Here are 21 vegetables and herbs to start in August!

What Can You Plant in August? (By Zone)

Late summer is for anchoring fall/winter crop roots against cooler weather.

August is almost universally a hot month. Whether in the far north or deep south, this is peak summer. But if it seems like your garden will start slowing down, remember that the party is just getting started! Late summer is when most fall and winter crops get their roots anchored to prepare for cooler weather. 

Wow, the season goes by quickly! While summer crops are still cranking, this is a crucial window to seed any fall roots, greens, and storage crops like cabbages.

It may be warm now, but cool weather is on its way. Use the warm sunshine and long days to establish fall carrots, turnips, beets, brassicas, and onions.

Your first frost is likely months away. There is ample time to seed a fall succession of most major crops. You can also enjoy fast-growing warm-weather crops like corn and green beans that should be ready just in time for Thanksgiving and harvest celebrations.

In subtropical and tropical zones, you never experience frost. August can be pretty hot, but it is a great time to propagate fruit trees and establish perennials in your tropical landscape.

Regional Planting Guide

Planting times vary drastically across regions. Rather than relying solely on growing zone maps, consider these three main things before planting in August (or any time):

Understanding Your Frost Date

Close-up of a frost-covered cabbage in a sunny garden. Cabbage forms a dense head with large wide dark green leaves and light veins. The leaves are waxy, smooth and completely covered with white ice.To gauge planting timing, use a tool to find your average first and last frost dates.

Frost dates are the backbone of the modern gardener. Use the National Gardening Association’s frost date tool to type in your zip code and find your dates. These two dates determine your estimated frost-free growing season in any region. Your final frost date in the spring is the estimated last frost that signals the beginning of your gardening season. Your first frost date in the fall is the average first hard freeze that signals your growing season may be coming to a close.

Of course, many crops survive through frosts. But even the most frost-hardy crops, like kale, cabbage, or hardy perennials, need to get established during warm weather. The point of frost dates is to give you an ideal planting window.

These dates are estimates based on your local weather data from decades passed. While they aren’t 100% foolproof, they give you the best place to start. 

Know your estimated first frost date when determining what to plant in August. You can count back the days from this point to determine if your crop has enough time to mature.

Know Your Crop’s Days to Maturity

Close-up of a gardener harvesting carrots in a sunny garden. Carrots have large, elongated, bright orange taproots with tapered edges. A rosette of thin divided dark green leaves grows on top of the root crops. The gardener is dressed in blue jeans and blue gloves.Seeds have days to maturity (DTM) on packets/catalogs, indicating how long it takes for the plant to mature fully.

Every seed packet and catalog includes a given crop’s days to maturity (DTM). The days to maturity is the amount of time it takes from germination to the plant’s full, mature stage. The DTM can vary significantly by variety. For example, fall storage carrots like ‘Bolero’ or ‘Scarlet Nantes’ take about 75 days to mature. Spring carrots like ‘Napoli’ take just 58 days, and ‘Danvers 126’ takes 65 days. This is why it’s so important to choose seed cultivars that can mature before the weather is too cold for them to survive.

Once you’ve found fall-specific varieties, it’s time to use your calendar. Find your estimated first frost date and subtract the days to maturity. I often type into Google, “75 days before September 19.” This is the estimated last fall frost for Whitefish, MT in zone 4b and 5a. 

In this example, the date is July 6. This means July is the latest time I should sow long-season carrots. It might still be safe to sow fall storage carrots in early August if I plan to cover them with row fabric or a low tunnel. An early August planting of ‘Astro’ arugula might be more suitable because the greens only require 32-55 days to mature. 

Use Season Extension

Close-up of a wooden raised bed with vegetable crops growing in a sunny garden. Crops such as cabbage and carrots grow in the garden. Cabbage has a rosette of large broad blue-green leaves. Another type of cabbage has broad, pale green leaves. Carrots form rosettes of lush, feathery dark green leaves.Helpful gardening tools like greenhouses, low tunnels, and row covers extend harvests by protecting crops from frost.

Thanks to modern gardening innovations, we are not constrained by our frost dates! You can keep your crops protected in the fall to extend your harvests. 

Season extension devices include:

  • Greenhouses
  • Low tunnels
  • Raised beds
  • Row cover (row fabric)
  • Mulch
  • Shade cloth
  • Succession planting

While we won’t cover all of these here, it is safe to say that you can get away with later plantings if you are strategic. While I may not seed corn in August in zone 4 or 5, as it would be really difficult to cover those massive plants, you can certainly get away with cold-hardy peas, lettuce, kale, chard, and brassicas. 

Similarly, in zones 9-10, you can use shade cloth for the opposite effect. You may be able to get an earlier crop of heat-tender lettuce or cilantro by shading it from the late summer sun.

21 Vegetables and Herbs to Seed in August

August’s long, frost-free days are a blank canvas for a rainbow of vegetables and herbs! Combine the strategies above with your own experiments to determine whether these crops will work best in your late summer garden. If you’re still dealing with sweltering heat waves, stick with warm-weather species for now and save the fall crops for September and October planting.

Arugula

Close-up of growing arugula in the garden. Arugula, a leafy green vegetable, has elongated leaves with a distinctive peppery flavor. The leaves are deeply lobed and have a slightly wrinkled and serrated appearance.Arugula thrives in cool August weather, especially in the north.

  • Direct Sow: Zones 6 and cooler
  • Transplant: Not recommended

With its love of cool weather, arugula screams August for northern growers. The seeds enjoy germinating in warm soils, and the weather will likely be cooling down by the time they are a few inches tall. 

For baby greens, sow closer together and harvest regularly. You can harvest arugula as a “cut and come again” green, which means you get several harvests from the same crop. The trick is to leave the growing tip intact so the plants can regenerate.

When the arugula reaches at least 6” tall, use sharp scissors or a harvest knife to chop it roughly 2” above the soil surface. Enjoy the baby greens, and come back for another cut in a week or two.

Peas

Close-up of growing peas in a sunny garden. They have a vining growth habit and typically produce tendrils that help them climb and cling to supports. Pea leaves are complex and consist of several pairs of leaflets. The leaves are oval in shape and smooth at the edges. Pea plants produce fruits known as Plant fall peas for a 60-70 day maturity period. Sow near your trellis, pre-soak seeds, and consider frost protection.

  • Direct Sow: Zones 3-7
  • Transplant: Zones 1-4

These cool-weather legumes germinate quickly and take 60-70 days to mature. You can direct-sow into the garden near a fence or trellis for them to climb. They benefit from pre-soaking and warm, loamy soil.

Fall peas need to be established two months before the estimated first frost. Covering or protecting trellised tender peas can be difficult, so ensure you have a wide enough planting window.

Both green peas and sugar snap peas can be planted in August to yield a fall harvest in late September or early October. If you want a head start, sow seeds in cell trays and transplant them outdoors under row covers. 

Snow peas don’t mind mild fall frosts and may continue producing through October in cooler climates or even well into the winter in warmer ones. Edamame (soybean) is a great alternative for hotter southern climates.

Green Beans

Close-up of a green pea plant in the garden. Green bean is an annual plant with a bushy or climbing growth habit. Bean leaves are complex and consist of three oval-shaped leaves. The leaves are smooth-edged and bright green in color. Green beans produce elongated pods that contain edible beans or seeds. The pods are thin and long.Warm-climate gardeners rely on quick-maturing bush beans like ‘French Filet’ for fall, planting in August.

  • Direct Sow: Zones 6 or warmer
  • Transplant: Any

For warmer-climate gardeners, green beans are a staple in the fall. Holiday meals aren’t quite the same without a green bean casserole (and canned beans don’t compare).

Fortunately, bush beans like ‘French Filet’ and ‘Jade’ mature in under 60 days. This means an August planting should be ready to pick by October. 

Row covers and low tunnels can help extend the season, and they’re easy to install over these stout plants. Still, it’s not recommended to plant this warm-weather crop in zones 5 or colder unless you have a greenhouse. Beans usually do best when direct-sown, but they can benefit from transplanting if you’d like to give them a head start.

Corn

Close-up of growing corn in a sunny garden. Corn is a tall, annual cereal plant with long, strong stems and large, blade-shaped leaves. They grow alternately along the stem, and each leaf is characterized by a central midrib and parallel veins. The fruit of the corn plant is the corn cob or ear. The cob is covered by layers of leaves known as husks.Plant multiple successions of sweet corn in warm zones like 7 and above for ongoing harvest until colder weather.

  • Direct Sow: Zone 7 and warmer
  • Transplant: Not recommended

A fall classic, corn doesn’t only have to be planted once each summer! Multiple successions of this BBQ party favorite are sure to keep everyone satisfied until the cold sets in.

While it’s too late to seed popcorn, you can still plant another quick-maturing sweet corn crop in zones 7 and warmer. As long as you provide plenty of irrigation, corn seeds will love August’s warm soils and abundant sunshine.

‘True Gold’ and ‘Buttergold’ are two quicker-maturing varieties with exceptional flavor. These plants tolerate cooler fall weather but will certainly die at any sign of frost. Don’t risk it if you tend to have unexpected early winters. 

Purple Daikon Radish

Purple daikon radish grows from a central taproot and produces a rosette of large, elongated leaves. These leaves have deep lobes or serrations that create a frilly look. The fruit or edible part of the purple daikon radish is the root itself. The root is elongated and tapers towards the end, resembling a carrot but with a unique purple appearance.Try the unique and flavorful purple daikon radishes, best planted in late summer for fall harvest.

  • Direct Sow: Zones 4-8
  • Transplant: Not recommended

If you’re not impressed by regular red radishes or spicy white daikons, this fall root is a must-try! Purple daikon radishes have vibrant fuchsia-hued skin with pale pink, purple, and white striated flesh. They taste crisp, earthy, mildly peppery, and sweet (especially after frost).

A platter of thinly sliced purple daikon with hard goat cheese and a glass of red wine is absolutely divine. They also add a beautiful flair to any kimchi or coleslaw.

These autumn roots are best established in late summer so they can hang out in the ground all the way up to the frost. They are a perfect storage crop because the roots easily last in your refrigerator for months once you remove the tops. ‘KN Bravo’ is a radish variety most commonly grown by market farmers and takes roughly 50 days to mature.

The seeds enjoy a toasty 70-80°F soil temperature for even germination (easy to find in August!). Then, the plants prefer to mature in the cooling temperatures of September and October. This crop was made for fall because it will bolt if sown too early in the summer. 

Carefully use a fork to lift the roots when it’s time to harvest. Wash and cut the tops 2” above the crown of the radish. Store in a plastic bag in a refrigerator for up to 10 weeks.

Celeriac (Celery Root)

Close-up of growing Celeriac plants in the garden. The Celeriac plant has a bulbous central root that grows just above the soil surface. Celery leaves are large, wide, with deep lobes, resembling celery leaves. The leaves emerge from the top of the root and are a rich green color. Celeriac's root is the main edible part of the plant. It has a rough, knobby texture and a beige to pale tan color.Discover the flavorful and creamy celeriac, an unusual plant that’s perfect for fall dishes.

  • Direct Sow: Zones 7-10
  • Transplant: Zones 6-8

Also known as celery root, this lesser-known celery relative looks a bit like an alien asteroid. Fortunately, it tastes like a wholesome potato crossed with a celery stalk, the perfect ingredient for autumn soups, stews, and roasts. It is delightfully creamy when roasted and pureed!

Celeriac is a long-season crop that takes up to 100 days to mature. In cold zones, it needs to be planted in early summer. However, in zones 7 and warmer, August is a great time to establish this unique autumn root.

Transplanting can give you a jumpstart and help ensure a solid stand. The plants are finicky about temperatures, so be sure they don’t experience anything below 55°F in the early phases. Once firmly rooted, celeriac is tolerant of light frosts.

If you can, find pelleted seeds because celery-family seeds are notoriously tiny and difficult to handle. Beware that, in rare instances, celery foliage can cause a rash to sensitive people on hot days. Wear long sleeves during harvest if you might be allergic. 

Lettuce

Close-up of growing lettuces in the garden. Lettuce is a leafy green plant that is widely cultivated for its edible leaves. Lettuce leaves are usually arranged in a rosette radiating outward from a central point at the base of the plant. The leaves are smooth, waxy, delicate, bright green in color with wavy edges.Beat the heat for salad greens: plant lettuce in mid-to-late August for cooler September growth.

  • Direct Sow: Zones 1-7
  • Transplant: Zones 1-7

Salad greens despise summer heat because it causes them to bolt (send up seed stalks) and turn bitter. However, seeding lettuce in mid-to-late August gives the seeds a nice warm environment for even germination, then gifts young plants with the cooler weather of September. 

For zones 7 and colder, lettuce can finally grace autumn salads. Even a zone 1 gardener (I hope you’re nowhere that cold!) could enjoy baby lettuce mix in August! Zones 8 and warmer should wait another month or so to plant lettuce again.

Choose between head lettuce or baby salad mixes. You can direct seed or transplant beneath the dappled shade of companions like tomatoes or peppers or use shade cloth to prevent bolting in the early stages. Lettuce enjoys consistent moisture. Baby greens can be harvested with the “cut and come again” method if you leave the lower 2 inches of the plant intact.

Kale

Close-up of a garden bed with Kale plants growing. It is a leafy green vegetable with large, sturdy leaves that grow in a rosette pattern. The leaves are elongated, oval, dark green in color with strongly artsy edges.Embrace autumn with kale: plant in late summer for fall and winter harvest or for quick baby greens in 21 days.

  • Direct Sow: Zones 4-7
  • Transplant: Zones 3-8

You can’t talk about autumn without discussing this cool-weather classic. Kale is a fall and winter staple, but it needs to get established in the late summer. Baby greens can mature as quickly as 21 days, but full-size crops need at least 2 months to reach their full glory.

Once a kale plant has matured, it becomes the gift that keeps on giving. Frost will sweeten the leaves, and you can continuously harvest all winter long in most climates.

After transplanting, kale benefits from a layer of light row cover to keep the flea beetles and aphids away. In hot weather, this brassica easily bolts. So if you tend to have toasty Augusts, wait another month before planting. Generally, baby kale is direct-seeded with close spacing, while full-size kale is transplanted with around 12-18” between each plant and 24” between rows.

Broccoli

Close-up of growing broccoli in a sunny garden. Broccoli is a vegetable plant with large, dense flower heads and edible leaves and stems. Its leaves are green and clustered at the base, and the flower heads form on thick stems and consist of densely packed buds. Mature flower heads are harvested as the edible part, often referred to as the Fall broccoli needs warm germination and cool maturation temperatures, protection from heat, and proper spacing.

  • Direct Sow: Not recommended
  • Transplant: Zones 5-9

Fall broccoli is in the same boat as fall kale. It prefers to germinate and root in the warm weather of August or September; then, it can mature in the cooler temperatures of October and November.

The plants don’t enjoy intense heat and can bolt if stressed by a heat wave or inconsistent irrigation. The secret to great broccoli is adequate spacing and consistent moisture. These large plants need 12-18” in every direction. Don’t let the soil dry out.

Early seeding is key for areas that receive heavy frost in early fall. Ideally, zones 4-6 have already started broccoli indoors and can transplant it outside in early August. Zones 7 and warmer still have time to start seedlings. You can plant in late August and September in mild climates like zones 9-11, then overwinter your broccoli. Direct seeding isn’t common.

Broccoli is a crop that comes in a vast array of cultivars, so it is vital to choose a seed particularly bred for fall production. Sprouting broccolis like ‘Burgundy’ are great for a continuous harvest of side shoots, while frost-hardy ‘Belstar’ and ‘Marathon’ are heading varieties specifically suited for summer plantings and fall harvests. In southern climates, wait until September or October to start this crop.

Cauliflower

Close-up of a growing cauliflower in a sunny garden. It is a vegetable plant with a compact, rounded head composed of undeveloped flower buds. The leaves are large, green, spreading in the form of a rosette at the base of the plant. The edible part is a dense white head.Cauliflower, like broccoli, thrives in late summer, matures in 60-70 days, and starts best in May or June.

  • Direct Sow: Not recommended
  • Transplant: Zones 5-9

This white-headed cousin of broccoli prefers almost the exact conditions. Also available in orange, purple, and yellow, cauliflower does particularly well in late summer and fall. It takes 60 to 70 days to mature and is best sown in May or June, then transplanted in July or August.

If you forgot to start seeds indoors, you can always check if local nurseries have any established seedlings available. Cover young plants with row fabric to keep flea beetles out and encourage rapid establishment.

Cabbage

Close-up of a growing cabbage in a sunny garden. Cabbage is a leafy vegetable plant with a densely packed head formed by overlapping leaves. The leaves are broad, green, and surround the head in layers. The leaves are glossy, waxy in texture and veined with white.Cabbage is perfect for fall. Pick fast-maturing storage varieties and enjoy sweet coleslaw.

  • Direct Sow: Not recommended
  • Transplant: Zones 5-9

Yet another cole crop, cabbage, is ideal for fall. Choose fast-maturing storage varieties like ‘Copenhagen Market’ or ‘Red Acre.’ The cool weather sweetens this crop, making it far superior to supermarket cabbage. You can enjoy coleslaw well into fall and store heads in the refrigerator for several months through winter.

These heading brassicas are frost-tolerant and prefer the same conditions as broccoli and cauliflower. Warm the soil to get it germinated and allow it to become established, and cooler temperatures during maturation are ideal. Harvest when the heads feel firm with tightly wrapped leaves. 

Turnips

Close-up of a ripening turnip in a sunny garden. Turnips are root crops with round bulbous edible roots and edible leafy greens. The roots are rounded, pink-purple. The leaves are green, growing in the form of a rosette from the top of the root.Rediscover turnips with modern varieties, choose sweet Japanese types, and enjoy them fresh in various dishes.

  • Direct Sow: Zones 4-8
  • Transplant: Not recommended

If turnips make you think of your grandma’s stew, rest assured that modern varieties have made turnips cool again. While classic purple tops are great for fall sowing, I prefer the faster-maturing, tenderly sweet Japanese types.

Bred specifically for fresh eating, these crisp, white roots are so tasty you can enjoy them like a carrot or apple. They complement any autumn coleslaw, salad, kimchi, or roast. Best of all, turnips were made for fall conditions!

Direct seed in late summer, about 1-2 months before your expected first freeze. Turnips tolerate moderate frost and do well under a layer of floating row fabric. This cover also keeps flea beetles and root maggots away from the tender white roots. Harvest when they are a little larger than a golf ball for the most tender flavor.

Look for ‘Hakurei,’ ‘Tokyo,’ or even ‘Hirosaki Red’ seed varieties. They may be harder to find, but they are worth the effort! 

Collard greens

Top view, close-up of Collard greens in the garden. It is a leafy vegetable plant with large, dark green and smooth leaves. The leaves grow in a rosette form from a central stem and have a robust texture. The leaves are blue-green with white veins.Collards, both a southern staple and cold-hardy plants similar to cabbage and kale, grow in 50-60 days.

  • Direct Sow: Not recommended
  • Transplant: Zones 5-8

These hearty greens are a Southern staple but are also remarkably adapted to the cold. As close relatives of cabbage and kale, collards are an underrated “super green” that is quite easy to grow in your garden. They take just 50-60 days to mature and come in many slow-to-bolt options for hotter climates.

Seeds are best started indoors 8-10 weeks before your first frost date. However, you can always find established seedlings at a nursery. You can enjoy rich stewed greens by October if you transplant in August. You can continue harvesting the frost-tolerant leaves into November in mild zones.

Mustards

Close-up of Mustard plants in a sunny garden. Mustard is a leafy vegetable plant with frilly serrated leaves. The color of the leaves is dark green. They grow in a rosette close to the ground and are known for their spicy and tangy taste.Mustards thrive in fall, sow indoors 4-6 weeks before frost, and transplant in August for September.

  • Direct Sow: Zones 5-10
  • Transplant: Zones 4-10

If you’re growing mustards for seed, you need to plant in the spring. However, these cool-weather greens can also thrive in the fall. For a greens harvest, sow mustards indoors 4-6 weeks before your first fall frost. Transplant seedlings in August for a thriving stand by late September. You can also direct seed for smaller leaf harvests.

Harvest mustard greens like kale or chard by cutting off the lower side leaves first and allowing the center leaves to continue growing. ‘Miz America,’ ‘Mizuna,’ and ‘Must Have Mustards Baby Greens’ are great seed varieties.

Baby mustard greens are a great addition to salad mixes for flavor and texture. These can easily be direct sown with a salad mix in August. Beware, mustard greens can be quite spicy in hot weather. Like most brassicas, they get sweeter in the cold. Cooking also helps to mild out the spicy flavor. Mustards tolerate light frosts but die in hard freezes.

Bok Choy

Close-up of many growing Bok choy in a sunny garden. Bok choy is a deciduous vegetable plant with thick, crisp white stems and dark green leaves. The leaves are broad and resemble a slightly elongated spoon shape. They grow in clusters at the base of the plant, and the stems have a soft, crunchy texture.For fall, sow bok choy in August. It needs 75-85°F soil temperatures for germination, matures best in mild weather, and is somewhat frost-tolerant.

  • Direct Sow: Not recommended
  • Transplant: Zones 5-8

To round off the brassica brigade, we can’t forget bok choy! This Asian green loves the fall weather and benefits from an August sowing. Bok choy prefers to germinate in soils that are 75-85°F. It matures best in mild weather and is somewhat frost-tolerant. Most market farmers grow a spring and late summer/fall crop of this classic stir-fry ingredient.

I prefer ‘Baby Choi’ over all others for its cute little heads and quick 35-day harvest. Direct sow or transplant any time in August for northern growers. Warm-climate gardeners should wait until the weather cools a bit more because bok choy is prone to bolting. Fortunately, the flowers are edible and tasty, like raab, if you catch them young.

Spinach

Close-up of a growing spinach in a garden bed covered with water drops. Spinach is a leafy green vegetable plant with delicate broad leaves. The leaves are dark green and have a slightly wrinkled texture. They grow on thin stems and form a rosette close to the ground.Cold-loving spinach, an August planting for northern gardens, can overwinter in cold climates.

  • Direct Sow: Zones 4-7
  • Transplant: Not recommended

Known for its iron-rich leaves, spinach is a versatile green that prefers cool soil. For this reason, it is only an August option for northern growers. When grown under protection, the plant is remarkably cold-hardy and can overwinter in areas as cold as Zone 4.

If your soil temperatures are over 85°F, spinach will have slow or erratic germination. Use a soil probe to check before wasting any seed. The plants quickly establish and tolerate heavier soils as long as they aren’t acidic. Keep the soil consistently moist and harvest greens in as little as 30 days. 

Carrots

Close-up of a growing carrot in a sunny garden. Carrots are root vegetables with thin, elongated edible roots and feathery green leaves. The roots are bright orange in color, elongated in shape. The leaves are fern-like and grow in clusters from the top of the root.Plant fall carrots in August for solid root anchoring. Succession plant every 2-3 weeks, and consider storage varieties.

  • Direct Sow: Zones 5-9
  • Transplant: Not recommended

Fall carrots need plenty of time to anchor their orange roots before the cold hits. August offers cozy soil temperatures and ample sunshine to get them off to a good start.

Most gardeners don’t realize they can succession plant carrots every 2-3 weeks for the entire season. Storage varieties like ‘Bolero’ and ‘Napoli’ are great for late summer plantings and will accumulate extra sugary flavor when cooler October weather arrives. 

Beware that carrots are finicky about germination. You need to overhead-irrigate them during the dry August months to ensure a proper stand. Once they germinate, you can switch to drip lines or soaker hoses.

Lemon Balm

Close-up of a growing Lemon balm in a sunny garden. Lemon balm is a herbaceous plant with bright green, heart-shaped leaves with serrated edges. They grow on square stems and have a slightly wrinkled texture.Plant lemon balm in early fall by direct seeding or transplanting, and enjoy its fragrance and edible leaves.

  • Direct Sow: Zones 4-9
  • Transplant: Zones 4-9

Early fall is a great time to direct seed or transplant lemon balm. This fragrant mint-family herb has remarkable companion plant benefits and smells divine when you brush past it. The leaves are edible and great for garnishes or tea. 

Tamp the seeds into the soil and don’t cover them, as they need light to germinate. The plants like to grow in clumps or mounds, but it helps to thin them 10-12” apart. This herbaceous perennial will die back in frosty weather and return in the spring. Mulching is recommended anywhere that it gets below 0°F. 

Rosemary

Close-up of a growing rosemary in the garden. Rosemary is an aromatic woody herb with needle-like leaves. The leaves are dark green, small and narrow, densely growing along lignified stems.In warmer zones, plant rosemary in late summer and ensure well-drained soil for nursery-bought plants.

  • Direct Sow: Not recommended
  • Transplant: Zones 9-12 

This Mediterranean herb benefits from a late summer planting in zones 9 and warmer. If you purchase a plant from a nursery or have newly rooted cuttings, be sure to prepare a well-drained garden bed or outdoor container in advance. Rosemary is not commonly grown from seed.

These plants thrive in warmth and sunshine. While they become quite drought-tolerant after establishment, be sure to provide plenty of water in the initial phases.

Lavender

Close-up of blooming lavender in a sunny garden, against a blurred background. Lavender is a fragrant herbaceous plant with narrow, silvery-green leaves and slender stems. The leaves are evergreen and grow in an alternating pattern along the stems. Lavender is known for its characteristic cone-shaped clusters of small, fragrant purple flowers.Lavender thrives in August’s warmth and sunlight, suitable for zones 9 and 10.

  • Direct Sow: Not recommended
  • Transplant: Zones 9-10

Like rosemary, lavender enjoys the abundant heat and sunlight of August. In colder zones, young plants are best transplanted in the spring. However, this is a great time to establish this perennial herb if you live in zones 9 or 10.

Prepare well-drained soil amended with plenty of pea gravel, horticultural sand, or perlite. Root rot is the #1 killer of lavender, so if you want to enjoy these fragrant purple blooms, be sure water can pass through the soil freely!

Parsley

Top view, close-up of parsley in a garden covered with water drops. Parsley is a herbaceous plant with bright green, flat or curly leaves. The leaves grow in groups of several leaflets on thin stems.Parsley is cold-hardy, germinates in cooler soil, and is ready for November harvest if seeded in August.

  • Direct Sow: Zones 8-10
  • Transplant: Zones 5-7

Parsley plants are some of the most cold-hardy herbs around. They can germinate in soil temperatures as cold as 50°F, and the leaves can tolerate a whopping 10°F chill. Although they take outrageously long to germinate, parsley seeded in August is ready to harvest in November in warmer zones. Cooler climate growers should transplant parsley from established seedlings. 

This cool-season biennial is best harvested like kale, where you pull outer stems one by one as needed. If you leave the center core intact, the plants can provide herbal flavor throughout the winter in zones 7 and warmer.  

Prepare for Next Month: September is Garlic Planting Time!

Before you wrap up your August planting, don’t forget to order seed garlic! September is the most common time in the United States to plant garlic bulbs for an abundant harvest next summer. Seed garlic is often in high demand, so be sure you find a quality source with disease-free bulbs.

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