A common problem that plagues gardeners is the curling of tomato leaves. Many factors can cause this symptom. The key is to correctly identify the problem before administering a solution.
Tomatoes are one of the most commonly grown plants and have a prominent place in many gardens. From beautiful heirlooms to fertile hybrids, there is a tomato plant for everyone. Nothing beats the taste of a tomato straight from the vine, but growing tomatoes can also be a little tricky.
There are a few key factors to consider when determining the causes of tomato leaf curl. Notice whether the leaves are curling up or down, whether they appear to have insects, whether they are brown or yellow, and other unusual factors. These can help you identify the real problem, as you are about to learn!
Possible treatments for causes of tomato leaf curls:
What Causes Tomato Leaf Curl?
An example of a plant with severe leaf curl caused by damage to the plant.
Tomato Leaf Curl is similar to a stomach ache in humans. Some causes are benign and others are a symptom of more serious problems. In addition, some can be easily fixed while others are untreatable.
One of the best methods of gardening is to regularly inspect your garden for signs of damage and, based on experience, take preventative measures. We can divide the causes of leaf curl into several general factors: environment, chemistry, and biology. We'll delve deeply into each problem in the following sections.
Ecological damage
For many gardeners who buy tomato seedlings in the spring, there are times when their tomato plants thrive for a few weeks and suddenly develop leaf curl. This is a type of physiological leaf curl or leaf roll that is triggered when the weather suddenly gets too hot and dry and there may be insufficient root development. The physiological leaf roll begins at the bottom of the plant with older and lower leaves and works its way up the stem. The tomato leaves the cup inward and may appear leathery. Affected leaves keep their green color. Usually, plants recover from physiological leaf rolling and environmental stress through appropriate cultural practices, so fruit yield should not be compromised.
An indeterminate tomato plant can grow very large and be prone to Wind stress and damage. If the plant is not properly staked out and supported, it can twist, the leaves curl, and the tips of these tomato leaves can die off. This damage is similar to herbicide damage, but you should be on the lookout for strong winds in your area and be able to pinpoint the cause.
Gardener's mistake
Each plant has its own environmental needs. It is important to consider the environmental conditions for which your tomato plant is best suited and try to restore those conditions to your garden. Tomatoes prefer well-drained soil. When there is ground saturated with water and there is excessive moisture around the root system, it removes air pockets and creates conditions for infection and root rot. Root rot causes tomato leaves to roll, change color from green to brown and hang. Use a moisture meter or just your fingers to check how damp the soil is and allow the soil to drain completely before your next watering.
Pruning can also put a strain on the tomato plant. Although gardeners are learning to pinch suckers on tomato plants, keep in mind that leaves are the way plants make food and convert sunlight into energy. Overlap A young or poorly established plant can cause enough stress to stunt plant growth and decrease fruit production.
Herbicide damage
Herbicide damage to tomato leaves.
Tomatoes are sensitive to chemical driftparticularly to herbicide 2, D-4. Chemical drift occurs when agricultural or weed control sprays are carried by the wind and deposited away from the designated area. In contrast to physiological leaf curling, plants that suffer herbicide damage can have leaves that curl downward, look twisted, and have malformed fruits that are not safe to eat. Other symptoms may include yellowed leaves or split stems.
Keep an eye on the new leaves on these plants. The tomato can potentially recover from herbicides and still get a good harvest. If you notice that the leaves are curling as they grow again, you can pull the plant out completely and start over. Make sure the manure or compost you use in the garden is not contaminated. Herbicide damage can last a few years in your garden if the chemicals remain in the soil and continue to be a problem for future plants.
insects
Aphids are a large family of pests with over 4,000 species and are a common problem on tomato plants. They attack plants by using their mouth parts to remove sap from leaves and stems. If left untreated, aphids can slow down plant growth and result in lower fruit yields. Damage leaves can pucker, pucker, and have light yellow spots. Aphids are commonly found on the underside of leaves and can be seen with the naked eye. Pay attention to their tiny bodies and dew drops that they secrete.
Wide mites are another group of pests that are found on the underside of the leaves. They attack a wide variety of plants, including peppers and tomatoes. Broad mites prefer tender young leaves and feed on growing tips and flower buds. The new growth turns brown and curls up. As with aphids, broad mites are visible and can be easily identified on leaves that are damaged. Wide mites also spin webs on the underside of the leaves, so this is a sign to look out for.
Diseases
Damage to a tomato plant by the tobacco mosaic virus.
A less common cause of leaves curling can be due to viral infections. The Tomato mosaic virus (ToMV) and Tobacco Mosaic Virus (TMV) are both diseases that can affect tomato plants, and they have very similar symptoms. Young tomato plants may have stunted growth with small leaves that curl upward. Both viruses spread primarily through human activity, for example from the hands of the gardener from one plant to another. There are many disease-resistant tomato varieties that are bred to deal with these strains of the virus. For example, “Health Kick” and “Sophya” are disease-resistant varieties of hybrid tomatoes.
The Tomato-yellow leaf curl virus (TYLCV) was first identified in a greenhouse in California in 2007. Although the yellow leaf curl virus was found in other parts of the world, it wasn't introduced to the Americas until the 1990s and has since had a major outbreak in Mexico that destroyed fruit production during the 2005-2006 growing season. This is a harmful virus that inhibits the growth of the plant and limits its fruit yield. The Yellow Leaf Curl Virus is spread by white sweet potato flies and can affect a number of host plants. These white flies do not tolerate cold winter temperatures and should therefore not be a problem for many growing areas in the USA and Canada. The tell-tale symptom of this viral infection is short bushy plants with small leaves that curl upward and the yellowing of the leaves along the veins.
Remedies for Tomato Leaf Curl
Cultural Practices
Environmental causes of leaf curling are most common and usually treatable. Essentially, you can think of leaf curling as a way the plant is communicating that something is wrong. Check the growing conditions around the plant. Use your fingers to measure the moisture content of the soil and watch all day how much direct sun your plants get and how hot the outside temperature is. These plants need good drainage and even watering. Use a waterer hose for a hose clock or hand pour the water deeply instead of sprinkling water from the top of the plant. Tomato plants are prone to fungal infections, and it's important that the leaves stay as dry as possible. Apply mulch generously around the plant to help maintain soil moisture.
Although tomatoes thrive in summer, they can still be stressed by high temperatures, high dew points, and heavy rainfall. Tomato plants can sunbathe too! Depending on the variety, tomato plants can get sunburned if the temperature rises above 30 ° C. Using a 30% sunscreen shade cloth is good protection for your plants. These shade cloths can be reused year after year.
Attach the shade cloth to your tomato stakes and spray them with a preventative fungicide. The cloth can stay over the plants during the entire growing season, depending on how many days you have over 30 ° C. Pests target stressed plants. Hence, preventing pests like aphids and mites is a natural way to keep your plant healthy.
Tomatoes are sturdy, fast-growing grapevines. While planting, expect indefinite varieties to grow very tall and need structure to support their growth. Regardless of the method you use, regardless of whether piles, cages or grids are used, attaching your system to the supporting structure can prevent or limit wind damage. Trim excess suction cups and bottom leaves to allow more airflow. Also plum leaves with visible aphid or mite infestation as a step in their population control.
In addition to pruning, plants that are infested with aphids or mites can be treated with a powerful jet of water to wash away the pests. Spray the water early in the morning to give the leaves plenty of time to dry in warmer weather. If necessary, neem oil or insecticidal soap can be used for moderate infestations or pyrethrin for very severe infestations.
When treatment fails
Sometimes saving a tomato plant is just not possible no matter how hard we try. This is why it is important to always have a few plants ready in case the current ones in your garden fail. When pruning tomato leaves, suction cups can easily be rooted in water as a backup. If the weather doesn't cooperate and the plant just can't make it, you can compost the plant.
But before composting, you need to pay attention to the main causes of death. If you have an infected plant due to leaf curl virus or a plant that is suffering from herbicide damage, it is important not to compost your plant as the virus or chemicals remain in the soil and can be passed on to future plants.
The green fingers behind this article:
