Civilizations grow in the northern hemisphere and have grown blackberries for food and medicine for thousands of years. They were found in the stomach of the notorious moor woman Haraldskær, whose remains have been found in Denmark and are 2,500 years old. London distilleries were known to use blackberries in liquors during the Renaissance. And people around the world today benefit from growing blackberries, which they can enjoy in jams, cakes, and other delicious treats.
Blackberries are a wonderful addition to any culinary garden. These hardy perennials can grow both in containers and in the ground, and once produced they produce a sweet and tart fruit year after year. Growing blackberries is pretty straightforward if you just know a few key details about their life cycles.
Because of their short shelf life and finely shaped fruits, many blackberries can develop mold in grocery stores or be disappointing in the taste department. This makes them all the more desirable in the culinary garden. But be careful, as blackberry vines can become invasive.
Good products for growing blackberries:
Brief instructions for care
When you grow blackberries at home, you get the freshest, most delicious fruits. Source: nrllhdgrmnc
| Common Name (s) | blackberry |
| Scientific name | Rubus fruticosus |
| Days to harvest | Two seasons for the first fruit; 45 days from flower to fruit |
| light | Full sun, at least 5-6 hours a day |
| Water: | One inch a week, avoid dry or damp soil |
| ground | Rich, sandy or loamy soil, well-drained |
| fertilizer | Twice a year with a balanced formula compost around the plants |
| Pests | Leaf rolls, spotted winged Drosophila, blackberry aphids, raspberry beetles, raspberry crown borer, Japanese beetles, strawberry beetles, strawberry root beetles, mites |
| Diseases | Anthracnose, botrytis, powdery mildew, sugar cane rot, orange rust |
Everything about blackberries
The blackberry Rubus fruticosus is a shrub native to many regions of the northern hemisphere. Because of their delicious taste and generally easy to grow nature, they can now be found in zones 5 through 10 around the world in the United States.
Every blackberry plant consists of several components. Flat perennial rhizome forms the base from which long biennial stems, so-called sticks, grow.
New sticks (called Primocanes) grow up to 6 meters long each year, but initially do not produce any fruit. During their second year, canes (now called floricanes) produce lateral growth that then yields fruit. This fruit is actually a collection of 75-85 small individual fruits called drupes that combine to form the entire blackberry.
Types of blackberries
Upright blackberry plants can be grown without assistance. Source: VirtKitty
There are four basic types of blackberries: towing, upright, semi-upright, and primocane.
Behind blackberries are preferred by many gardeners, with thornless varieties often preferred. It is recommended that you use blackberry trellis to train the blackberry bush for easier access to fruit. These varieties are better suited to warmer southern climates.
Some popular varieties of trailing blackberries are Evergreen and Thornless Evergreen, a cold, hardy variety that is popular for agriculture. Chester, another cold hardy, thornless variety with resistance to sugar cane rot; and Columbia Star, a plant that produces many large, high quality, uniform fruits on thornless, trailing sticks.
Raise the blackberry Varieties are similar to their subsequent cousins, but they do not require a grid. These sturdy, thick sticks are self-supporting.
Popular varieties of the upright blackberry include arapaho, a mid-season fruit grown in zones 6-8 with good disease resistance; Kiowa, a variety with giant 3-inch fruits that is produced at the beginning of the year; and Ouachita, a thornless variety that is resistant to floret disease and produces a lot.
Half upright blackberries should still grow with a lattice, but can partially support itself. Only when these become quite long does the additional support prove to be necessary.
Popular strains include Triple Crown, a vigorous, thornless grower in zones 5-9; and Hull, a thornless variety with medium to large fruits and good winter survival.
All of the above are biennial cane plants; They produce fruit on their canes in the second year of the canes' life cycle. The sticks of the first year harden.
But hybridization created that Primocane blackberry. This is a hybridized plant that bears fruit on first year canes and in fact can sometimes produce two crops a year in the right climate.
Popular types of Primocane berries include Prime-Ark Traveler, a high-yielding early-season thornless variety; Prime-Ark 45, Traveler's thorn-bearing companion; and Black Gem, a thornless, low-acid variety of Primocane that can produce up to 15 pounds of fruit per plant per year.
Plant blackberries
If this is your first time learning how to grow blackberries, first evaluate your area under cultivation. When planting in the ground, keep in mind that the roots can quickly spread sideways and the plant can take control. If you are planting in containers, you can opt for a wide but shallow pot, as long as the bottom depth is at least 6 to 8 inches. A 5-gallon saucepan that is shallow but wide will do well for most blackberries.
Grow your blackberry plant in well-drained soil. Blackberries thrive in full sun, but can also tolerate partial sun. Mulch 2-3 inches heavily at the base of the plant to save water.
When purchasing bare-root stocks, find blackberry varieties specific to your region. Blackberries can be grown in zones 5-10, but each type has its own requirements. In colder areas, make sure to plant after the last hard freeze. In areas with mild winters, gardeners have more leeway and can plant root-free stands in late winter or early spring. Soak the roots in water for an hour before planting, and then place the roots an inch deeper than they were previously potted.
maintenance
A close-up of a blackberry leaf and an unopened flower bud. Source: David Illig
Overall, blackberries are pretty easy to care for. The most important factors are location, regular watering, and understanding of blackberry pH, as well as the biennial nature of blackberry stalks.
Sun and temperature
Blackberries need at least 5-6 hours in full sun for a good harvest, but will grow in shady conditions with a smaller harvest. Depending on the variety, blackberries can tolerate cold weather, but generally need to protect their canes from frost when temperatures drop below 28 degrees.
Water and moisture
It is best to grow blackberries in conditions that will remain consistently moist.
For plants in soil, try watering 1-2 inches per week at the base of the canes. Drip irrigation hoses are ideal for this. Containers may require more frequent watering to keep the roots from drying out.
Avoid getting leaves or sticks wet or watering late in the day as this can attract pests and diseases. Spread 2-3 inches of mulch around the plant to aid in water retention. Water about twice a month during the resting phase, but not when temperatures drop below freezing point.
ground
Blackberries thrive in rich, sandy or loamy, well-drained soils. Adding lots of organic matter to the soil helps in moisture retention, decomposes, and helps feed your blackberry plants. They prefer a slightly acidic soil pH between 5.5 and 6.2. If you are unsure about the pH of your soil, you can use a home test kit to get a good estimate.
Fertilize
Beautiful flowers are a sign of fresh berries. Source: Laighleas
Proper fertilization of blackberries will help increase the crop size. It is important to fertilize twice a year at the beginning of spring and immediately after harvesting the berries and pruning old canes. If you've just planted bare roots, wait a month for the roots to set before fertilizing. 2-3 inches of organic compost around the base of the plant should be enough to get your blackberry bushes going properly.
In the spring, try an NPK fertilizer in equal parts (10-10-10). This balanced ratio promotes even root and sugar cane growth as well as leafing out. If you find the bush is not bearing fruit, re-fertilize it with an NPK mixture that is less nitrogen, e.g. B. a ratio of 1-2-1.
If blackberry plants seem to have problems after two fertilizer applications instead of using more, test the pH of the soil. Soils that are too alkaline are often not ideal for growing blackberries and you may need to make changes to agricultural lime or sulfur.
Pruning & Training
Planting blackberries requires two types of pruning at different times of the year.
Lace cut needed in early spring when the tips of new canes are trimmed back to 2 to 3 feet to encourage lateral fruit growth.
Clearing up pruning happens at the end of the harvest. Completely remove old second year sticks that have borne fruit, but leave the new sticks in place. Do this immediately after you harvest to prevent disease from spreading from the old canes to your new canes.
When pruning, use sterilized scissors to prevent the disease from spreading.
For varieties that require trellis, grow three to five sticks per plant per year, trim off excess sticks, and train the sticks on a trellis or wire support. You can provide extra support using plastic plant ties, strips of cloth from old T-shirts, or other methods of securing your sticks.
Multiplication
Propagating them is an easy and inexpensive way to grow blackberries in your garden. You can root a cut by cutting off a petiole about 4 to 6 inches long and placing it an inch deep in rich soil. Keep the cut damp, but not wet, in a shady place. Roots form in about a month.
If you find a blackberry sprout next to the blackberry parent, you can uproot it and move it to a location of your choice. This is the easiest method of propagation.
They can also spread by tip spreading, which involves bending part of an existing stick to the ground and holding it in place by a metal post. Over time, roots will develop from the top of the stick touching the ground and form a new plant.
Harvesting and storing
Blackberry fruits start out green and then gradually turn red before darkening. Source: Snowcat
Blackberries add a hint of flavor when grown at home. However, they do not last long or are not easy to transport. So how you choose and store them is important.
harvest
Blackberries can take several weeks to ripen. Once ripe, gently place your fingertips around where the berry attaches to its stem and gently pull on it without crushing the fruit. Ripe fruits peel off the plant easily. Unripe fruits can show some resistance and should stay on the plant longer.
storage
Store fresh, unwashed berries in an open container in the refrigerator. Place a paper towel over it to absorb any excess moisture. Wash them right before you eat.
For long-term storage, berries can be frozen by spreading them on a sheet pan in the freezer. Once frozen, place the berries in a sealed container or freezer bag. Making jams or jellies from your berries is another great way to store them, provided you use a safe, tested recipe.
Troubleshooting
Blackberries are hardy plants but succumb to pests and diseases common in their area. Let's cover some of the most likely problems that you may encounter.
Growing problems
With blackberries Don't grow to full size or shape white drupesIt is due to bad weather at the time of pollination and will most likely pass as the season progresses. If Stone fruits are redPick berries when the temperatures are cooler.
Pests
Leaf rollsThe tortrix moth larvae buried themselves in sticks and let the leaves roll or turn yellow. During the growing season, you can kill these pests by using neem oil, Bacillus thuringiensis (BT), spinosad, or pyrethrin.
Drosophila dotted wing are an invasive beetle that resembles a fruit fly and damages the berries. Prevent these by placing sticky traps around your plants.
Blackberry aphids are a greenish-yellow species of aphid. Use a hard jet of water to repel these plants. Neem oil or insecticidal soap will kill your eggs. Pyrethrin works well with large infestations.
Raspberry beetle eat and lay eggs on the flowers or leaflets of blackberries. Their larvae tunnel into the fruits and destroy them. Pyrethrin works against these pests.
The Raspberry Crown Drill Moth resembles a wasp. Their larvae dig into the crown and root system and can cause entire sticks to wither. Beneficial nematodes can help kill larvae, but infected plants should be removed.
Japanese beetles can skeletonize your plant's leaves, and its larvae are cream-colored maggots that feed on roots in the ground. Spinosad keeps these large, shiny green beetles away.
Strawberry beetle are small black or brown beetles whose larvae kill the bud of an unopened flower. To combat it, remove infected buds and spray them with pyrethrin.
The Strawberry root beetle is a different pest than normal strawberry beetles. These larvae feed on the roots of your plant and cause damage similar to raspberry crown borer. Apply beneficial nematodes to your soil to deal with them.
In the end, Mites are possible nuisances to your blackberries. For these, neem oil can prevent their eggs from hatching on your plant. For severe infections, use either spinosad or pyrethrin.
Diseases
Look for leaf spots or other signs of disease near ripe berries. Source: pinkangelbabe
Anthracnose causes sunken, red-brown lesions on young canes between the leaves. Over time, these cancers can become and hibernate on the older canes. The leaves can fall off early and the fruits can dry out. Regular uses of neem oil can prevent this from happening, but large breakouts may require copper fungicide.
Botrytis in blackberries appears as gray and hairy-looking mold on flowers and fruits. As with anthracnose, neem oil can be preventative, but copper-based fungicides are better at killing the gray mold.
mildew causes a whitish powder to form on the leaves of plants, hence the name. These powdered mushrooms can reduce the plant's ability to properly absorb sunlight. Neem oil is an effective treatment for powdery mildew.
Stick rot is caused by a fungus that produces large, brown cancers on the sticks. Leaves can also wither, a common first symptom that helps gardeners spot the cancers. Horticultural oils are preventative, but copper fungicide kills the fungal source of the disease.
Orange rust is caused by a fungus, Arthuriomyces peckianus. It can hibernate in infected hives. Yellowish-orange spores cover the underside of the leaves, and sugarcane growth can be stunted or spindle-shaped. Little to no fruit forms. There is no reliable treatment for orange rust, and plants infected with it should be removed and destroyed, not composted.
frequently asked Questions
Once a flower is pollinated, the hard green fruit will begin to form. Source: Odalaigh
Q: Do blackberries need a trellis?
A: Trailing or semi-upright varieties must be latticed with either a wooden or wire mesh for support. It can be easier to install a wireframe system at the time of planting to control growth.
Q: Can blackberries be grown in pots?
A: Yes. Blackberries are very suitable for wide pots. While they don't take up much root depth, they do need space to move sideways and produce more canes. They may also need a grille for support.
Q: Are brambles invasive?
A: Blackberries can be very invasive. Be careful where you plant them and keep them at bay so that out of control roots and sticks don't affect your garden.
Q: How many times a year do blackberries bloom?
A: Most blackberry varieties bloom once per season at the end of a two year growing process. However, Primocane varieties may continue to bloom and produce two or more crops per year, depending on the species.
About the writer Elizabeth Cramer:
Elizabeth Cramer is a cook, plant lover and potter. She loves teaching others how to cook and growing their own food. The native Californian, who spent her childhood within earshot of the orangutans at the San Diego Zoo, now lives on the beach, where she fights against powdery mildew and farmer's tan.
Her love for food and where it comes from stems from her time in Spain when, as a teenager, she lived in an olive oil factory against the wind, drove to school among olive and orange groves and ate fresh local food. Right after college, she joined the community gardens and really fell in love with growing plants. As an obsessive plant, she recently started canning in an effort to achieve her goal of living 100% on her own land.
The green fingers behind this article:
Lorin Nielsen
Lifelong gardener
