You love it or you hate it! This is what we hear most about cilantro. Regardless of your personal tastes, you will love growing cilantro just for its good looks. That this whimsical, feathery plant is a delicious side dish is just a bonus!
Another bonus you get with this plant is coriander seeds. Coriander and coriander may look and taste different, but they actually come from the same plant. Coriander, as you probably know, is the leaves, while coriander comes from the seeds. This is why you hear Coriandrum sativum which both names refer to, which is correct!
We could go on and on about the great properties of cilantro / coriander. Its unique scent attracts butterflies and beneficial insects that will aid in pest control in your garden. Coriander is also non-toxic to animals, which makes it perfect for a pet-friendly garden.
The world has come to appreciate the coriander plant. It's a staple in many cultural cuisines – especially Mexican and Thai. For your preferred culinary taste, you can create an edible themed garden with this herb (check out our ideas for a Mediterranean or Salsa garden.
Whether you like the taste or not, learning how to grow cilantro can really benefit your garden. In this article, we'll help you do that by covering everything you need to know about growing cilantro!
Good products for growing coriander:
Brief instructions for care
Growing cilantro and cilantro is surprisingly easy and rewarding. Source: Hackett
|Common Name (s)||Coriander, coriander, Chinese parsley, Mexican parsley, Dhania|
|Scientific name||Coriandrum sativum|
|Days to harvest||30th|
|light||Full to partial sun|
|Water:||Moderately and consistently|
|ground||Fertile, well drained|
|fertilizer||Balanced every other week|
|Pests||Cabbage grinders, cut worms, aphids|
|Diseases||Powdery mildew, bacterial leaf spot, weakening|
All about coriander plant
With just one look at the plant, it is determined that it belongs to the same family as carrots and parsley. The long, thin stems grow in clumps from a taproot and often spread over time. On each stalk are the feather-light, fern-like leaves that we like to eat. The lower leaves of the plant are slightly more rounded than the upper leaves and are very similar to parsley. Coriander is a fast growing coriander that grows up to 2 feet tall and wide.
In the heat of summer, coriander plants produce white or pink flowers. The flowers are umbels, which means that there is a central stem on which several shoots with flower tips grow and which form an umbrella-shaped inflorescence. When ripe, the coriander flower produces aromatic coriander seeds. The seeds are contained in small, yellow-brown pods, which are technically the fruits of this plant.
Every part of this plant is edible, including the roots used in Thai cooking. Perhaps that's why it's such an old and popular plant. Coriander seeds come from the time of the ancient Egyptians. They have also been a historically significant ingredient in dishes in China and India (you have a hard time finding an Indian curry without coriander).
This plant may originate from southern Europe and the Mediterranean, but has been grown worldwide for centuries. Coriander is now produced in almost every country in the world. Mexico is the main commercial producing country and California is the fastest growing state.
Coriander has a short lifespan because it screws up in high heat. However, this can be extended by choosing a variety that can withstand higher temperatures without affecting the taste. Our favorite choices are the Calypso, Marino and Santo varieties. On the flip side, some strains, like the festival coriander, can handle colder temperatures, making them ideal for winter growing in zones 8-9.
If the thought of cilantro still makes you wince – you are not alone. Up to 14% of the population actually have some genetic variation that causes a soapy aftertaste when consuming coriander. However, those with the "soap" gene can get used to the taste – especially if they grew up with it as part of their culture's cuisine. If you just can't take it, there are some pretty good coriander substitutes out there, including Vietnamese coriander and papalo.
Coriander seeds are what we call coriander, another culinary spice. Source: louisa_catlover
The whole planting process is mainly based on extending the life of the plant before bolting. Coriander only needs about a month of growth before harvest can begin. So you can get the most out of your plants by planting just after the last spring frost. You may even be able to grow coriander in completely frost-free areas in winter! For a continuous harvest, it is recommended to plant more coriander (like corn) every other week.
The taproot does not allow easy transplanting. So plan that your coriander's first home is its only home. Sow the seeds directly in the ground or in a medium-sized container. Seeds sow ¼-½ inches deep and 3-4 inches apart. When planting in the ground, don't be afraid to place them close together. As they grow, the compacted foliage will shade the soil well and keep the roots happily cool.
If you're late for the planting game or need a more convenient method, many nurseries sell cilantro starts (they're pretty cheap too!). Just plant cilantro right in its new home, being careful not to damage the taproot.
Coriander plant care
Coriander leaves have a feather-light, beautiful shape. Source: ibeamee
You will be pleased to hear that growing coriander is not a demanding task. That being said, you are definitely getting what you put in so a few extra steps can extend your harvest.
Sun and temperature
Your coriander plants will enjoy full sun with some light shade in the afternoon. You can go nuts and sunburn in direct light and heat, especially in temperatures above 75 ° F. These plants can grow in zones 2-11, but their placement is critical to keeping them happy. Since coriander is preferred in the southern zones, it grows best indoors. On the other hand, make sure you don't plant until after the last frost.
Water and moisture
Give your coriander plants a moderate amount of water, meaning you should give them a drink when the soil starts to dry out. If you are growing cilantro for its seeds, let the water lighten when flowers show up.
In terms of humidity, coriander likes to be dry. You can control this by keeping the leaves dry while watering (this will also prevent pests and diseases).
You need rich, loamy, and well-drained soil to keep your plants happy. Ideally, the pH should be between 6.2 and 6.8, but these plants aren't too picky about this. Spread mulch on the soil surface to prevent bolting by keeping the roots cool.
Coriander seeds form on the coriander stalks. Source: Hamburger Helfer
Coriander fertilizer isn't mandatory, but it can help you build a steady supply of herbs. After the plants are a month old, apply a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer (at most) every two weeks.
If you want to harvest coriander leaves, this is all you need to do. However, you can strategize your cut to better shape the foliage. When your cilantro gets big and leggy, cut off those top stalks to make it bushier.
If your plants shift, you can't just cut the flowers off and keep harvesting. When the flowers begin to form, the taste of the leaves changes dramatically and cannot be restored.
Coriander grows so easily from seeds that there is really no need to reproduce in any other way. It often re-seeds itself and has even escaped artificial gardens to grow weed-like on its own. Leave it as is and it will usually grow back (may not be true to type) in the following year. You can also harvest the coriander seeds and plant them the next year.
Harvesting and storing
Quickly use fresh cilantro or chop and freeze for later. Source: Evan G.
Learning to harvest coriander or coriander is a piece of well-seasoned cake. If you have planted continuously throughout the growing season, you will not be short of herbs!
Chinese parsley grows so fast that you can harvest coriander leaves just a month after planting. The younger leaves have the best taste. Simply pinch the leaves off by hand or with clean scissors. Many gardeners only take as many leaves as they need at the time, while others cut the whole pile at once (it will grow back).
If you are looking for coriander, the seeds will be ready about 3 months after planting. Immature seeds, while edible, usually have a bitter taste and smell. We therefore recommend waiting for it. When the seeds are ripe, the whole plant dries out. Eventually the seed pods open. So try to harvest beforehand. After cutting, let the seed head dry out completely in a paper bag. This allows the taste of the seeds to develop and the plant eventually releases the seeds into the bag.
You know how to cut cilantro, but what about storage? Store fresh coriander leaves in the refrigerator for about a week. If you put them in water like flowers, their freshness is extended. If leaves go bad, remove them from the bundle immediately so the others can stay fresh.
The leaves lose their taste as they dry, but remain in the frozen state. The most popular method is to chop the leaves and place them in an ice cube tray. Add some water or other cooking liquid and put the tray in the freezer. Then when you cook and need cilantro you can pop a cube out and just toss it in the pot!
For coriander, make sure the seeds are completely dried out, then store them in an airtight container in a cool and dark place (like any other spice). With this method they will last a few years. When cooking, you can use the seeds whole or ground, depending on what you're doing.
Plant every two weeks for a continuous harvest of your cilantro. Source: Farmer_Jay
Fortunately, coriander doesn't have any serious pest and disease problems. However, there is still a chance that you will encounter the weird problem every now and then. So here is what to look out for.
We mentioned Screw pretty much because it's a common problem that is only part of how coriander grows. When the temperature rises, the plant will sow as quickly as possible so that its genes will live on in the next generation. Screws are inevitable, but there are things we can do to slow them down.
The first solution is to buy varieties that can withstand higher temperatures and plant them in partial shade. You can also plant new seeds every few weeks to replace them with a different one. Lastly, harvest your coriander often. This means that you are pruning back potentially budding stems.
Cabbage grinder are small green worms with a big appetite. They chew directly through coriander leaves and invite diseases. Predatory insects are really effective against these pests, especially beneficial wasps. You can also get rid of cabbage grinders with a dose of BT, spinosad, or pyrethrin spray. These pests can be prevented by using a fragrance deterrent such as garlic, citrus, or neem oil.
Cutworms are nocturnal predators that literally cut the stems in two. They like to hide in debris in the floor, so your first preventive step is to keep this room clean. You should also cultivate the soil after the last harvest to chop up the pests or make them vulnerable to other predators such as birds. The BT spray and beneficial wasps that we recommended for cabbage grinders also work on these pests.
This would hardly be a gardening item if we didn't mention it Aphids. These ubiquitous pests eat plants in large populations. You can fight them with insecticidal soap, pyrethrin spray, lacewing, parasitic wasps, and ladybugs. For small populations, a jet of water should push them off the plant.
mildew looks like the sheets have been sprinkled with baby powder. This fungus-based disease can seriously affect the growth of your coriander (not to mention its appeal!). The simplest treatment is an organic sulfur spray, although spraying neem oil evenly can prevent this.
Bacterial leaf spot is difficult to control, so prevention and early intervention are crucial. These bacteria cause soggy, discolored lesions in foliage and can easily spread through coriander seeds and water. The best way to prevent this from happening, choose resistant varieties and keep the green growth dry. Sulfur spray and copper fungicide prevent the bacteria from spreading, although they do not completely eradicate them.
Attenuation offThe death of small seedlings is usually caused by fungal diseases. The baby plants will be fine one day and the next they'll be brown, mushy, and dead. The disease lives in the soil and does its damage when conditions are warm and humid. With houseplants, you can prevent this by using fresh, clean potting soil each time you plant. Outside, make sure the soil is well drained and not overcrowded with plants and debris.
Perhaps the best defense against cushioning is to help your plants grow quickly and strong. Take good care of them and they will be better equipped to fight this disease on their own. Some mycorrhizal additives are showing signs that they work well for fungi too.
frequently asked Questions
Coriander produces pretty white flowers that eventually turn into seeds. Source: wburris
Q: Does coriander grow back after cutting?
A: Yes, and it should grow back quickly. However, this is a yearbook and will go to sowing at some point.
Q: Does coriander come back every year?
A: Coriander is an annual and dies at the end of each growing season. However, it will usually re-seed itself and reappear in the following year.
Q: Does coriander grow well in pots?
A: This is a fantastic choice for pots! Plus, learning how to grow cilantro indoors is very easy. As long as you have good quality soil and pot with drainage holes, you will be hired.
Q: Why does coriander taste like soap?
A: This is where genes play a role. Some people are wired to strongly detect the aldehydes in coriander. These aldehydes happen to be found in soap, which explains the connection.
The green fingers behind this article: