What is Bruce Lee's vegan brother called? Brocco-Lee, of course! These vegetables don't like martial arts, but they are definitely a master in the garden. In this article, you will learn everything you need to know about growing broccoli at home.
Bad jokes aside, growing broccoli isn't hard, we promise! You will be amazed how well these cole crops get into your yard. Once planted, they are low in maintenance, especially if you have an irrigation system in place.
Unlike cauliflower, which is one and done, broccoli continues to produce edible shoots after the main head is harvested. The leaves, open flowers, and seed pods are also edible, so not much is wasted. In terms of nutrition, broccoli provides a good amount of vitamins A, B, C, fiber, calcium, iron, zinc, and more. What else could you ask for in a vegetable?
Broccoli plants are the icing on the cake and are therefore easy to grow in cold weather. Don't feel left out if you live in a warm climate – broccoli grows there in winter! Let's get to know this popular vegetable a little better. After we're done, you can grow and eat these tiny, tree-shaped florets.
Good products for growing broccoli:
Brief instructions for care
The beginning of a head that is beginning to form on the broccoli plant. Source: Life in Monrovia
Common Name (s) | broccoli |
Scientific name | Brassica oleracea (Italica group) |
Days to harvest | 100-150 days |
light | Full sun |
water | Consistent; medium |
ground | Fertile, neutral soil pH |
fertilizer | Balanced if necessary |
Pests | Cabbage worms, cabbage grinders, root maggots, aphids |
Diseases | Black leg, black rot, club root |
All about broccoli
If you look up the name Brassica oleracea, you will be bombarded with a wide variety of cruciferous vegetables. From kale to Brussels sprouts to kohlrabi, this type includes many different types of vegetables (so-called cole crops). To keep order, B. oleracea is broken up into groups which will definitely narrow your search.
The Italica group is made up of many types, including our 27 favorite types of broccoli. Here you will find various flower crowns from the broccolini hybrid to the bizarre-looking Romanesco broccoli. However, sometimes it's best to stick to the basics. You want to grow the Calabrian variety, which is commonly used as broccoli in grocery stores.
We can thank the Mediterranean and Asia Minor for broccoli. It is believed that our favorite green vegetable grew back in Roman times, particularly in Italy. It was not until the 18th century that these vegetables came to England and a little later to America. Surprisingly, broccoli has only recently become popular in the United States, as it became popular in the 1920s.
I'm sure you've heard that broccoli is a flower, which is 100% correct! The head consists entirely of tightly bundled, unopened buds supported by sturdy, dense stems. We want to harvest broccoli before the flowers open. When left to their own devices, the buds open into a loose bunch of cruciform, yellow flowers (hence the name cruciferous).
The central head grows on a pillow made of large, dull green leaves. Take a look at the foliage and you will see the resemblance to cabbage. The entire plant typically reaches 1 to 2.5 feet tall and 1 to 2 feet wide. Although it is a perennial herb, broccoli is usually grown annual, especially in colder areas.
Plant broccoli
Broccoli seedlings are quite fragile and tiny at the beginning of their life. Source: Chiot & # 39; s Run
Because of the way broccoli grows, the time frame is a bit flexible. You can choose to plant broccoli for a spring harvest, an autumn harvest, or both! If you live in a warm climate, you can plant in the fall and harvest in the spring. The broccoli hibernates as long as the garden temperatures are not constantly below freezing point.
For a spring harvest, start broccoli seeds indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost date (late winter through spring). 3 weeks before this date, harden the seedlings and plant them outdoors. You can also plant broccoli at this time. Your broccoli heads should be ready for harvest by the end of spring.
For an autumn harvest, plant broccoli seeds indoors in July. Your goal is to transplant outside when the temperature is below 75 ° F. So you have to coordinate this with the climate of your region. Ideally, you can transplant into the garden in mid-August.
Plant broccoli seedlings in a room with plenty of sun and fertile soil. Crop rotation is an excellent tool for preventing disease in cole crops. So try to plant in a place where cruciferous vegetables have not grown in at least 4 years. Broccoli can be grown in containers, as long as they are large enough (at least 8 inches deep and wide). Growing containers has the added benefit of being able to put your plants in the shade during periods of extreme heat.
Because they're so small, sow seeds just a few inches deep. Place them 18 inches apart and 2-3 feet (48-36 inches) apart. Germination takes 4-7 days and requires temperatures between 45 and 85 ° F. Transplants can be planted a few inches deeper than the container. Aside from looking good, this will help create a more compact plant.
maintenance
A broccoli head that forms on the plant. Source: albedo20
Now that it's planted, your broccoli plant won't need a lot of work. Stick to the following grooming needs and you will soon have a rewarding harvest.
Sun and temperature
Broccoli needs full sun, so we see 6-8 hours of direct light a day. However, full sun coupled with hot heat can do more harm than good. You may need to shade the broccoli plant if the temperature rises above 80 ° F. If not, the growth may be stunted and the broccoli heads may slip. Shade cloths are great for protecting vegetables from heat (make sure they are 30% covered).
These plants are somewhat susceptible to frost, but usually do well if the temperature stays above 20 ° F. Ideally, however, the garden temperature should be 45-75 ° F.
Water and moisture
Broccoli plants love, love, love their water. They also have shallow roots so you need to be very consistent.
Do not let the soil dry out, otherwise the plant will be stressed, which will disrupt its growth and give the vegetables a bitter taste. Of course, you don't want to drown her either. After watering, there should be no puddles on the surface of the soil. Using a waterer hose is a great way to keep them fully hydrated.
Mulch is highly recommended for broccoli plants. It protects the shallow roots and keeps the water clean and the weeds out. Organic matter like compost, chopped leaves, or grass clippings are excellent choices for your garden.
ground
Loamy soil is best, but a variety of soil textures will work as long as they have a balance between drainage and water retention. The soil has to be constantly moist, but we never want to drown the roots (plants need air too!). The pH of the soil should be neutral or slightly acidic (6-7).
Keep the garden soil rich in organic matter and your broccoli plants will thank you! A good supply of nutrients will help them ripen before the broccoli growing season is over. Add organics before planting and periodically as the plants grow.
Fertilize
The best way to provide nutrients to your broccoli plants is to add organics to the soil. However, you can apply fertilizer to give your veggies an extra boost. After transplanting, start every few weeks until harvest.
Choose a balanced fertilizer like 10-10-10 or 12-12-12. A slow release is often the most convenient as it provides nutrients over a longer period of time. To really help the plant absorb it, pour water into the fertilizer after you have applied it. Avoid letting fertilizer touch the plant to avoid burns.
clipping
A closer look at the four-petalled broccoli flowers. Source: Monkeystyle3000
Broccoli doesn't look like it's needed, but pruning can actually help you strategize its growth. Left to its own devices, broccoli will grow a central head and some side shoots. Pruning allows you to concentrate growth on the broccoli heads or shoots.
On larger broccoli heads, cut the side shoots as they emerge. On the other hand, remove the central head about a month after the transplant. This leads to several medium-sized side shoots. As always, use a clean, sharp knife or sterilized pruning shears when making cuts in your plants.
Make sure your broccoli are at least 12 inches apart so they don't run into each other. If your garden doesn't have enough space, you will need to transplant the broccoli instead of pruning it.
Multiplication
Since broccoli is usually grown as an annual, it is usually only propagated by seeds. Because they pollinate each other, the plants that will be grown from your harvested seeds may not be of the type. Even so, saving seeds is a fun experiment that every gardener should try.
You have to sacrifice a broccoli head by allowing it to fully mature. Pick one that is healthy and let them go nuts. Then the head breaks into fluffy bunches of yellow flowers. It's actually very wildflower-like! After screwing, the seeds grow in the flower stalks. You will actually be able to round the stems and give them a pea pod appearance. This whole process will take at least a couple of months.
Once the seed pods on the plant have dried out, remove the broccoli plant from the soil and let it dry for another two weeks. Then you can tear off the seed pods and crush or twist them to release the seeds. The small, round broccoli seeds last up to 5 years, but are best used as soon as possible. Keep them in a dry, cool place until you're ready to plant.
Harvesting and storing
Growing broccoli is a fun way to have the freshest vegetables imaginable. Source: JustyCinMD
You have put all the work into growing broccoli and now you are ready to reap the rewards! Harvesting broccoli is easy. So you're going to be chewing on the florets before you know it.
harvest
Harvest your broccoli sooner rather than later. You don't want the system to slip! The head should be firm, stiff, and fully colored. It is usually the size of a fist or larger, but this varies depending on the variety.
Cut in the stem 4 to 6 inches below the head (or further down if you want to eat the stem too). You can also harvest and eat the leaves as if you were planting vegetables. Opened flowers and seed pods can also be eaten, usually as a side dish or sprinkled in salads. Harvest in the morning when the weather is cooler and move the heads from the garden to the refrigerator as soon as possible.
Most varieties will send out shoots after the harvest that could bring you a second harvest. So leave the plant in the ground for a while. These shoots are smaller than the original head, but just as tasty! Make sure you leave enough stems and leaves for the shoots to grow.
storage
You can store the broccoli head unwashed in the refrigerator for 3-5 days. If long-term storage is more your style, blanch the heads and freeze them for up to 12 months. If you are blanching, you should undercook them slightly so that they don't get mushy when thawing. As with any vegetable, the sooner you eat them, the better the quality.
Troubleshooting
A close up view of the buds that make up the broccoli florets. Source: cold_penguin1952
As mentioned earlier, growing broccoli is pretty easy. However, you need to be aware of the potential issues that can make the process less than easy. Here is a quick guide to what to look out for.
Growing problems
Screw may be the goal of saving seeds, but it can interfere with a good harvest. When broccoli screws up, the head breaks apart and stretches out the flowers. The yellow flowers may be pretty, but they're not ideal if you want a compact broccoli flower head.
Hot weather usually leads to bolting as it leads the plant to believe that the broccoli growing season is over. You can prevent this from happening by shading the plant in high heat. Unfortunately, once a plant is bolted, there is no way to fix it – although the flowers are edible.
Another growing problem is long-legged broccoli seedlings. This happens when they don't get enough sun – the plants literally reach out for light. Catch it early and you can repot the seedlings deeper for another try of short, compact plants. However, be sure to give them more light, otherwise you will just have the same problem.
Pests
Cabbage worms and Cabbage grinder will be looking for a variety of cruciferous vegetables including our beloved broccoli. They pose the greatest threat to broccoli seedlings and the flower head. These green caterpillars chew through leaves and flowers and eventually kill the plant. You can prevent infestation by using row covers until the plant blooms. Apply BT spray or diatomaceous earth to existing populations to protect your garden.
Root maggots are as dangerous as they are disgusting for your garden. These are fly larvae that hibernate in the soil only to wake up and get to work devouring your broccoli from the roots. Useful nematodes feed on the larvae when they are still in the ground, along with other garden soil pests. You can also prevent the larvae by cultivating the soil after harvest. Floating row covers are also good preventative measures.
It seems that no garden is a stranger Aphids. Fortunately, it is possible to keep these pests out while growing broccoli. Insecticidal soap is an excellent remedy for aphids and other garden pests. You can also just hit the plant with a strong jet of water and wash off the pests. Aphids also have a number of natural predators, including ladybugs, lacewings, and frogs. Frogs also feed on cabbage worms and loopers. So if you have one, you're in luck!
Diseases
The deadly Black leg disease comes from the soil and can easily move from plant to plant. It affects the seedlings the most and can be very difficult to control. With this disease, you will notice brown lesions that will eventually turn gray and develop reddish borders. The leaves turn yellow without falling off. Blackleg quickly kills the plant and cannot be fixed. Hence prevention is essential. Use crop rotation and keep the soil clean, removing dead plants immediately. After harvesting, keep the soil dry and well-ventilated every year.
Black rot is another dangerous disease caused by bacteria. Growing broccoli shows symptoms in its leaves. There will be blunt, yellow, V-shaped sections all over the sheet. These sections eventually turn brown and die off. The disease next spreads to the stem, effectively killing the broccoli.
Unfortunately, once it's settled in, black rot cannot be eliminated. However, you can try using copper fungicide to slow the spread. You may be able to harvest the top and side shoots as long as you cut off all of the affected areas. Prevent black rot by taking care of your soil. Rotate your plants and make sure the soil has enough nitrogen. Avoid watering with sprinklers as these can help bacteria spread.
Club root is another soil pathogen that makes broccoli worse for wear and tear. It attacks the roots, causing them to swell and deform. Prevention is the best medicine here. So keep your soil healthy by using crop rotations and disease-free seeds and plants.
frequently asked Questions
This broccoli head has completely slipped and is blooming. Source: Todd Dwyer
Q: How long does it take to grow broccoli?
A: Most broccoli varieties can be harvested around 100 days after sowing.
Q: How much broccoli do you get from one plant?
A: Growing broccoli will give you a central head and possibly some smaller side shoots.
Q: Does broccoli grow back every year?
A: You can grow broccoli as a perennial, but it is mostly grown annual, especially in areas with cool weather.
The green fingers behind this article:
Rachel Garcia
Juicy fanatic
Lorin Nielsen
Lifelong gardener